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Help Center

About Greenlight

General Questions

Can I Pick Up my Order at Greenlight's Shop?

Yes. Place your order online and we'll notify you when it's ready to pick up in the from hallway of our factory. Usually within 2 days of ordering.

NOTE: 

WE MANUFACTURE ALL ENGINEERED EPS SURFBOARD BLANKS PER ORDER ALLOWING FOR OPTIMAL CUSTOMIZATION TO MAKE SHAPING EASIER, FASTER, AND WITH LESS DUST.

DUE TO HIGH DEMAND PLEASE ALLOW UP TO 2 WEEKS BEFORE PICK UP NOTIFICATION OR SHIPPING.

What are your business hours?

Greenlight is Open for Order Pickups 10 am - 8 pm Daily.


Online orders only. You'll be notified when your order is ready to pick up.


NOTE: 

WE MANUFACTURE ALL ENGINEERED EPS SURFBOARD BLANKS PER ORDER ALLOWING FOR OPTIMAL CUSTOMIZATION TO MAKE SHAPING EASIER, FASTER, AND WITH LESS DUST.

DUE TO HIGH DEMAND PLEASE ALLOW 3 WEEKS BEFORE PICK UP NOTIFICATION OR SHIPPING.


I was wondering if you guys sold surfboard blanks in the store, or if you could only buy them online?

Online orders only. We'll notify you when your order is ready to pick up


NOTE: 

WE MANUFACTURE ALL ENGINEERED EPS SURFBOARD BLANKS PER ORDER ALLOWING FOR OPTIMAL CUSTOMIZATION TO MAKE SHAPING EASIER, FASTER, AND WITH LESS DUST.

DUE TO HIGH DEMAND PLEASE ALLOW 3 WEEKS BEFORE PICK UP NOTIFICATION OR SHIPPING.

I am a surfboard manufacturer and am interested in ordering some vented leash plugs. Do you offer any quantity discounts?

Our pricing structure is set up to offer discount pricing to both manufacturers and individuals. You don't need a business license or tax ID # to save money when buying from Greenlight.

Reduced pricing is based on quantity discounts on the following items.

  • EPS Surfboard Blanks (contact us to order in bulk)
  • Vented Leash Plugs (contact us to order in bulk)
  • Fiberglass (discounted levels available on the website)
  • Resins & Additives (discounted levels available on the website)






I placed an order last night on the website. When is the soonest I could stop by to pick it up?

Most pickups are available within 2 days of ordering, EPS blanks are 3 weeks... We'll notify you when it's ready

NOTE: 

WE MANUFACTURE ALL ENGINEERED EPS SURFBOARD BLANKS PER ORDER ALLOWING FOR OPTIMAL CUSTOMIZATION TO MAKE SHAPING EASIER, FASTER, AND WITH LESS DUST.

DUE TO HIGH DEMAND PLEASE ALLOW 3 WEEKS BEFORE PICK UP NOTIFICATION OR SHIPPING.

I forgot something on my order! Is it too late to include it?

Let us know what you need ASAP and we'll hold your order to include it. We will send a secure payment link for you to purchase and we'll ship it all out.

There is a $2.50 administrative order change charge.


Where's my order? I have not received my order yet.

We do our absolute best to ship your within 2 days depending on time of order. If ordering blanks it takes a few weeks to manufacture them and we work each shipment in the order we receive them. 

You will receive a tracking number email when your order ships. Check your spam folder if you did not see it.

You can also log into your online account and view the status of your order.


I am not able to log into my account with my email or reset password? Tells me there is no account with this email?

Email us at info@greenlightsurfsupply.com and we'll reset your account and send a link to login

My order was declined but my credit card says I was charged. What's going on?

We didn't receive any orders so you were not charged, out payment gateway declined the card for address or zip code discrepancy. Your bank marked your attempts as "pending" and hold it for 2-3 days.


More info on why you see it as a charge here:


The merchant is telling you the transaction was declined, and your bank is telling you it has been approved. Yes, your bank approved the transaction but the merchant's payment gateway declined the transaction so the entire transaction was declined even though your bank approved it. Merchant's payment gateway may have security settings which may have triggered a decline such as address and zip code verification. It is the way how the banks operate, so it's not your fault nor merchant's fault. The merchant cannot remove the charge since it was never approved, so please do NOT ask merchant to remove this charge. The charge will be on "pending" state, and the money will never be taken out of your credit card account but the reserve will be put aside so it will reduce your credit limit until the transaction clears on it's own within 2-5 business days. The bank will say "ask the merchant to call in to cancel this transaction", but a merchant CANNOT call in on your behalf as the credit card companies will not share account information with non-account holders such as a merchant.

To understand why this is happening, you'll have to understand how credit card transactions are processed. For full explanation, please read the Credit Card Processing Diagram with explanation below.

1. When a buyer commits an order, the credit card transaction goes to the payment gateway provider such as Authorize.Net and forwards the transaction to Merchant Bank's Processor.

2. The information is then sent to your bank ("issuing bank"), and your bank will either approve or decline the transaction based on customer's available funds. If transaction is declined by your bank, the transaction stops and there is NO problem. The customer's bank account will show transaction declined and so does the merchant's processor so there is no reason to argue with the merchant or bank.

3. If the transaction is approved by your bank, now the transaction is once again go through a security check by the payment gateway company with billing information sent by the issuing bank. If customer entered address, zip code and card code do not match with the credit card billing information provided by the issuing bank, the payment gateway may decline the transaction based upon merchant's fraud security settings. This is the reason why your bank says it's approved, and your merchant says declined -- and, they are both right!! Your bank approved the transaction, but the payment processor declined the transaction.

To conclude, the net result of transaction status is a failure as the payment processor declined the transaction even though your bank approved it. This transaction will NOT show up on your credit card statement as it is declined by the payment processor. To your bank, they'll see this transaction as approved and will temporarily hold ("reserve") this money until the payment processor claims the money (which will never happen as it is a declined transaction), or a specific time elapses with no action from the payment processor which then releases the reserve. The time it will take to release the fund varies from banks to banks, and it could take anywhere from 2-7 business days.

The reason for multiple "approved" transactions on your bank account may be due to multiple attempts on your part to submit the order when the payment processor declined the previous transaction.

Why would payment gateway company scan a security check and decline the transaction when the issuing bank already approved the transaction? Credit card fraud is one of the fastest growing crimes as more and more people are buying products and services online. When fraud occurs, the banks get their money back from the merchant and the customers get their money back from the banks (with a bit of hassle). It is the merchant who will lose money on fraudulent transactions. To protect merchants and buyers, payment gateway providers implemented additional security check to prevent "possible" fraud.

Note: You may reproduce and distribute contents of this article provided that you give a full credit to the author ("Scott Seong"), and provide a backlink to this page from your webpage. The content shown below is borrowed from Authorize.Net, and we do not have an authority to grant permission to redistribute it's content.

Credit Card Transaction Workflow Diagram
Source: Authorize.Net

1. The merchant submits a credit card transaction to the Authorize.Net Payment Gateway on behalf of a customer via secure Web site connection, retail store, MOTO center or wireless device.

2. Authorize.Net receives the secure transaction information and passes it via a secure connection to the Merchant Bank's Processor.

3. The Merchant Bank's Processor submits the transaction to the Credit Card Network (a system of financial entities that communicate to manage the processing, clearing, and settlement of credit card transactions).

4. The Credit Card Network routes the transaction to the Customer's Credit Card Issuing Bank.

5. The Customer's Credit Card Issuing Bank approves or declines the transaction based on the customer's available funds and passes the transaction results back to the Credit Card Network.

6. The Credit Card Network relays the transaction results to the Merchant Bank's Processor.

7. The Merchant Bank's Processor relays the transaction results to Authorize.Net.

8. Authorize.Net stores the transaction results and sends them to the customer and/or the merchant. This step completes the authorization process – all in about three seconds or less!

9. The Customer's Credit Card Issuing Bank sends the appropriate funds for the transaction to the Credit Card Network, which passes the funds to the Merchant's Bank. The bank then deposits the funds into the merchant's bank account. This step is known as the settlement process and typically the transaction funds are deposited into your primary bank account within two to four business days.

Why is my credit card zip or postal code not matching and the payment is declined?

Why is my credit card zip or postal code not matching?

When your payment fails due to an incorrect zip or postal code, this means your bank told us your security code matched, but not your zip or postal code. To protect both you and us, we decline non-matching transactions to fight fraud.

How we process payments

  1. We send a charge request to your bank for approval
  2. Your bank may both approve the transaction and tell us something didn't match -- in this case, they specified that only the security code matched, but not the zip/postal code

  3. To protect you against fraud, if either the zip/postal code or security code don't match, we reject the transaction
  4. For some banks, this can leave a temporary pending (but unsettled) charge on your account. It will fall off your card shortly, usually within 24-48 hours.

To get to the bottom of this, you need to find out why your bank is telling us that the information we are submitting with your payment does not match what they have on file for you. When you call your bank, they may initially tell you "we approved that charge". You have to be more specific with call center staff and ask "Why did the AVS not match? What zip code did you receive and what do you have on file for my account?"

Shipping, Returns, and Exchanges

Do you ship Internationally?

Yes! We ship to all corners of the world with USPS. Our webstore automatically calculates international shipping costs based on the weight of your package. 
At this time we cannot resins, resin additives, or surfboard blanks and kits to international addresses. 

Can you tell me what your blank shipping rate is? I know it's the same for 1-8 boards. I need to price out some customers boards.

Please read our blank shipping information page.

You can order blanks online and the shipping options will appear in the checkout for domestic US addresses.

Do you ship surfboard blanks and resin internationally?

Yes, we can ship blanks and resin within North America no problem.
The costs of shipping blanks and resins internationally (overseas) is extremely high. If you want to purchase larger volumes of product it becomes affordable on a container but small shipments are usually at least 5 times the cost of the product.
Please contact us if you have large volume requests. We have customers in the Caribbean, Puerto Rico, Peru, Chile, Costa Rica, and the UK who we ship larger quantities of blanks and resin to.




I'm looking to order a blank and some other materials, does the blank price listed include shipping? And if not, what would the cost of shipping it be?

Click HERE for our blank shipping info and costs. We can fit up to 4 blanks per box if you would like to lower your shipping cost per blank, and can ship 3 full boxes of blanks (12 blanks) for the same cost as shipping a single blank.

What is the shipping cost for a non-glued up EPS blank? I think I read that you can ship those via UPS, correct?

That's correct Greenlight's unglued EPS blanks 6'6" and under ship UPS Ground to your door. Shipping costs are calculated in the webstore's cart and based on your location.

Please visit our SHIPPING INFO page for detailed costs on blank shipping

 

When can I expect to receive my order?

All orders are shipped as quickly as possible. Some are same day, most are next day unless it is a blank order which we manufacture per order. Blanks ship out in about 3-4 days depending on the quantity you've ordered. 

We use USPS and UPS depending on best rate for your shipment. East coast addresses usually receive their shipments in 3-5 business days. Middle states 4-6 business days. West Coast 5-7 business days. Canadian customers expect 5-10 days as the shipment must go through customs office. All other international customers expect 21 days to receive your order.


You will be emailed a tracking number for your order. Please check your spam folder if you do not receive it. Please do not email us asking where you order is. The tracking number has the answer. If you do not receive your package in the estimated times stated above, please email us the tracking number and we will take care of it.

How much does it cost to ship blanks?

Please visit our SHIPPING INFO page for detailed costs on blank shipping

You can order blanks online and the shipping options will appear in the checkout for domestic US addresses.

 

I was wondering if I could just pick up the surfboard blanks from your location instead of having them shipped?

Absolutely. Please select "pickup at shop" in the checkout

For stock PU Blanks (US BLANKS and ARCTIC) they are ready to pick up immediately.

Engineered EPS Blanks are made to order and we'll email you when the blanks are ready. It's usually 4-5 days to get to your blank order.




Do you ship to Canada?

Yes. We can ship all products including Blanks and Resins to Canada. Shipping rates are calculated in the store's checkout.

MORE INFO ON OUR SHIPPING PAGE 

We also have options ship to a freight warehouses on the US border for you to pick up. It is much less expensive to ship there as opposed to over the border. 

If shipping blanks please email us for a shipping quote as we work with several cross-border freight companies to find the best price for you.

You are responsible for Duty and brokerage fees for the shipment. We recommend contacting one of the freight brokers below to clear your shipment through customs:

http://www.shipnorthamerica.com/htmfiles/brokerage.htm

http://www.aacb.com/

http://www.pcb.ca/


Is there a cheap way to get blanks to Quebec?

1. We can ship to one of the following freight centers on the US border for you to pick up and drive back over the border. There is a small warehouse fee for these freight centers. You clear through customs at the border. This saves a lot of shipping cost for you as the freight companies almost double the fees to get your products across the border and deliver to you.

NEW SEPT 2017! Have your blanks shipped to a warehouse with the KinekPoint Service! Dozens of warehouses on the US border we can ship to.

Freeport Forwarding - Champlain, NY (Approx 1 hour from downtown Montreal)

Bee Line Logistics - Champlain, NY

Pinnacle Parcels - Richford, VT

Shiretown Package and Receiving - Houlton, ME

CBI - Niagra, NY

If I order a Surfboard Kit - can I pick it up at your store/warehouse and avoid shipping costs?

Absolutely, you can pick a kit up at our shop in Manasquan. Please select "pickup at shop" and allow us to email you when the blanks are ready as we manufacture them onsite per order. Might take up to 2 weeks depending on how busy we are.

Would you be able to put one blank aside for me?

We cannot hold blanks without payment.
Please order the blank online and select 'pickup at shop' for the shipping option to make sure you get it.


I have a business account with US Blanks down in Florida but understand that you are a distributer for them. Would It be possible for me to pay US Blanks down in FL for my order, then have them sent them up to you where I can drive down and pick them up?

We are an independent distributor for US Blanks but offer a different and faster service than Florida actually. 


Can I come into the store and purchase a blank or do I have to order online first?

All orders are online.

If you are purchasing an EPS blank we fabricate them per order and please allow up to 2 weeks to pick up. We'll email you when it's ready. 

US Blanks are stock items you can order online and select "pick up at shop". We will notify you when they are out in the pick up area.

How much is shipping?

Shipping costs, both domestic and international are automatically calculated by the webstore based on total weight of the order and your location.

Shipping costs for blanks is a little more involved. Click here for more info on blank shipping costs. Keep in mind we can ship your fiberglass, resins, fins, tools, etc with the blanks in the same box for no additional cost


How much is shipping 2 EPS blanks?

Please visit our SHIPPING INFO page for detailed costs on blank shipping


I want to return my order.

Returns & ExchangesOur policy lasts 10 days. If 10 days have gone by since you received your purchase, unfortunately we can’t offer you a refund or exchange.To be eligible for a return, your item must be unused and in the same condition that you received it. It must also be in the original packaging. There is a 15% restocking charge for returned items.Non-returnable items:Gift cardsDownloaded / Digital productsTo complete your return, we require a receipt or proof of purchase and an RMA # (Return Merchandise Number) to be written on the outside of the return shipping box. Please contact us before sending the item back for your RMA#.Please do not send your purchase back to the manufacturer.There are certain situations where only partial refunds are granted (if applicable):1. Any item not in its original condition, is damaged or missing parts for reasons not due to our error2. Any item that is returned more than 10 days after deliveryRefunds (if applicable)Once your return is received and inspected, we will send you an email to notify you that we have received your returned item. We will also notify you of the approval or rejection of your refund.If you are approved, then your refund will be processed, and a credit will automatically be applied to your credit card or original method of payment, within a certain amount of days.Late or missing refunds (if applicable)If you haven’t received a refund yet, first check your bank account again.Then contact your credit card company, it may take some time before your refund is officially posted.Next contact your bank. There is often some processing time before a refund is posted.If you’ve done all of this and you still have not received your refund yet, please contact us at info@greenlightsurfsupply.com.sale items (if applicable)Only regular priced items may be refunded, unfortunately sale items cannot be refunded.Exchanges (if applicable)We only replace items if they are defective or damaged*. If you need to exchange it for the same item, send us an email at info@greenlightsurfsupply.com and send your item to:Greenlight Surf Supply187 Parker AveManasquan New Jersey US 08736

*Damage to items from improper use, storage, abuse or user error is not eligible for exchange.GiftsIf the item was marked as a gift when purchased and shipped directly to you, you’ll receive a gift credit for the value of your return. Once the returned item is received, a gift certificate will be mailed to you.If the item wasn’t marked as a gift when purchased, or the gift giver had the order shipped to themselves to give to you later, we will send a refund to the gift giver and he will find out about your return.ShippingTo return your product, you should mail your product to:Greenlight Surf Supply187 Parker AveManasquan New Jersey US 08736You will be responsible for paying for your own shipping costs for returning your item. Shipping costs are non-refundable.If you are shipping an item over $75, you should consider using a trackable shipping service or purchasing shipping insurance. We don’t guarantee that we will receive your returned item.

I am from canada and i saw that you can ship blanks here but i saw that you send them in 2 pieces does it come with the stringner and the glue?

We can ship EPS foam blanks in half for less than the blank glued up. We also ship Polyurethane foam blanks glued up but it costs more.

If you want to order an EPS foam blank the Canada shipping cost will be available in the webstore's checkout.

Stringer is included with the blank, the glue is separate and can be purchased HERE.


More info on blank shipping and shipments to Canda HERE

Why does it cost more ship US Blanks?

Unfortunately the shipping companies do not just weigh the order. They've devised what's called Dimensional Weight = (Length X Width X Height)/194. The large dimensions of the blanks (even shortboards) make the weight look like 100+lbs and therefore expensive to ship. They have to be moved on a tractor trailer and are called "freight". 

We work with multiple freight companies to negotiate the lowest possible shipping costs possible for you on every surfboard blank order.

But Greenlight has developed a way to ship Engineered EPS Surfboard Blanks under 6'6" to your door with UPS Ground for about 60% less cost than a freight truck. We ship the blank to you unglued to make the package smaller. Our EPS blanks have flat edges so glue up is really easy with clamps or even just stack the pieces vertically on the floor and apply pressure while the glue dries.


Where is my order?

You will be emailed a tracking number for your order. Please check your spam folder if you do not receive it. Please do not email us asking where you order is. The tracking number has the answer.

All orders are shipped as quickly as possible. Some are same day, most are next day unless it is a blank order which we manufacture per order. Blanks ship out in about 3-4 days depending on the quantity you've ordered. 

We use USPS and UPS depending on best rate for your shipment. East coast addresses usually receive their shipments in 3-5 business days. Middle states 4-6 business days. West Coast 5-7 business days. Canadian customers expect 5-10 days as the shipment must go through customs office. All other international customers expect 21 days to receive your order.


 If you do not receive your package in the estimated times stated above, please email us the tracking number and we will take care of it.

International Ordering

I understand you cannot ship blanks or resin internationally. Would it make sense to buy all the elements of the kit off of your store minus the blank and resin?

Sure, I recommend getting our shaping tool kit and our beginner glassing kit with epoxy (we can usually get epoxy through customs).

Do you ship to Europe?

Yes, but we do not ship blanks or resin to Europe at this time, too cost prohibitive. We do ship small items like tools and materials to Europe daily though.

Do you ship to International addresses?

Yes, we ship to most international countries. We can ship anything but blanks and resin to international addresses. International shipping rates are calculated in the store's checkout. Just make a shopping cart and enter your address. Local customs charges may apply. 

All packages are sent via United States Postal Service (USPS). Orders may be subject to import duties and taxes, which are levied once your package reaches your country. Greenlightsurfsupply.com does not collect import duties and taxes and cannot predict these particular charges. These duties and taxes are not included with the freight calculation and are the responsibility of the customer. For information regarding your country's customs policies, please contact your local customs office.

Do you ship to Mexico?

We can ship anything but blanks and resin to Mexico. International shipping rates are calculated in the store's checkout.

Would you be able to ship your products to Britain ? If I was able to pay in £ ?

Yes, we ship to Britain. Pounds are automatically converted to USD when your credit card is processed in the webstore. No problem.

Shipping costs are calculated in the store's checkout based on weight of products.

Please note we cannot ship resins or blanks internationally.

I currently work over seas can you ship to military FPO/APO address?

Yes we ship to FPO/APO addresses. Our webstore will not recognize an FPO address so please let us know what you'd like to purchase and we'll send you a secure payment link. No problem.

How is it with shipping blanks to Europe/Norway?

Very expensive to ship blanks overseas. You have to buy a lot of blank to make it worth the shipping costs

Do you ship to Brisbane Australia? Not blanks just general tools and sanding equipment

Yes, we certainly do ship to AU all the time. International shipping costs are calculated in the webstore's checkout based on total weight of the order.


Just wondering if it would be possible to get a shipping estimate to Vancouver Island BC. I'm looking to buy two standup blanks, fins, carry handles, and vents.

Shipping the blanks across the country to BC is about $400. The total weight of the order will determine the exact cost. When shipping blanks its always better to get more because they don't weigh much and the shipping costs do not increase much with multiple blanks.

We live in Canada, we were wondering if you had any ideas of customs fees that could apply while shipping.

Here is a link to the Canada Duty Calculator


Some shipments such as blanks will require a customs broker to clear your produts across the border. 

Here are a few brokers to contact for info:

http://www.shipnorthamerica.com/htmfiles/brokerage.htm

http://www.aacb.com/

http://www.pcb.ca/


Small shipments with USPS do not require a broker.


SURFBOARD BUILDING QUESTIONS

Surfboard Shaping Kits

What is included in the beginner surfboard shaping kit?

Our beginner surfboard shaping kits include everything you need to get started shaping boards at home by hand. All the materials, tools, instructions, safety equipment, and support. All you need extra is wood and screws to build your shaping racks. We even give you padding for the shaping racks you build and a free outline template of your choice from our Template Library.

The only thing not included is the fin boxes and fin install supplies since that is a personal preference and usually depends on what type of fins you currently own.

The beginner kits come with an Engineered EPS blank and epoxy resin so you can build a stronger board that will last (most people keep their first shape as a memory of the fun) and it's much less toxic and smelly than glassing with polyester resin so you can do it in your garage or basement without stinking the whole house up!

We ship the beginner kits to your door with UPS to reduce the shipping costs.. you will glue the blank halves and stringer together in a simple process. Here's a video of how to glue your blank to save about $100 in shipping costs!

Do you offer an all in one Longboard kit that I can use to shape a longboard? I ride Lake Michigan and a short or fun board really isn't good for riding our 'weak' lake waves.

Yes. We have a longboard shaping kit.

Contact us for shipping quote.

I’m shaping and ordeing a shaping starter kit, so a recommendation for which fins and fin system to get would be super helpful/awesome.

For a first timer, the least expensive fin system to install is FCS X-2 Plugs, [2 plugs per fin... for a tri fin you'll order 4 RAIL plugs and 2 CENTER Plugs, if you're making a quad fin order 8 RAIL plugs as the RAIL Plugs have a fin cant angle molded in] FCS X-2 Plugs only require a normal power drill, X-2 Holesaw bit. and quick set jigs. 


Here's how to install the X-2 plugs and a diagram of standard fin placements:


The things that we would suggest to make this an easy install are the FCS dummy install jigs and a g square or versasquare for laying out fin placements. The quick set jigs are an easy one time use product and the g square or versasquare is a tool you will use forever in your board building...


NOTE: For EPS boards use Resin Research Quick Kick Epoxy to reduce exotherm and prevent melting the foam. See Step 4. 



1. FCS X-2 and FACTORY plugs are installed after the hotcoat. After installation and the resin has cured, you sand them down flush with the board while sanding the bottom.



2. Once you have the quickset jigs laid out on the board (lined up with your shapers dots) you will use a FCS Hole Saw bit to make your holes for the plugs. Drill the hole 5'8" deep and pull the foam out with needle nose plyers or dig out with a flathead screw driver. 



3. We suggest using either FCS dummy jigs or a set of fins to set the plugs with the correct spacing as well as adjust the fin cant angle. Lightly screw the plugs onto the dummy jig tabs. If using fin keep the plugs loose on the fin tabs so you can push them down to where the "nubs" on the plugs touch the hotcoat.



4. Polyester boards: Mix 1 oz of resin per plug. (6 oz total for a tri-fin, 8 oz total for a quad). 


    EPS boards:  Use Resin Research Quick Kick resin.  In temperatures hotter than 80 degrees F, mix 1/2 oz per plug. You will fill the plug hole twice to reduce exotherm and prevent melting the foam. 



5. Polyester Board: Pour about 1/3 oz of mixed resin into the holes. 


    EPS Board: Pour about 1/2 oz mixed resin into the holes.



6. Place the plugs in the holes with the dummy jig or fins to ensure proper alignment. Set the fin cant to the desired angle and hold in place with tape. Here is an illustration of taping the fins in place (these are glass ons but same taping methods apply to FCS fin plugs)


Inline image 1



7. Polyester Boards: Using a small cup (dixie cups work great) carefully pour resin around the perimeter of the plug so it runs into the drilled hole. Be careful not to over fill! Fill just under the lip of the plug and jig. 

   EPS Boards: In temps above 80 degrees F, let the first pour cure for about 2 hours then mix another 1/2 oz Quik Kick resin per plug an top off.


Once the resin cures remove the jigs and sand the plugs down until they are flush with the board.  


__________________________________________________________________________________


Three other fin box options that are installed before fiberglassing your board are:

We also have FCS Fusion fin plugs which require a Fusion Install kit and trim router.


Another option is the new FCS II fin system which require a FCS II Install kit and trim router.


or


Futures Fin system which requires a Futures intstall kit with router


I am interested in pricing a beginner shaping kit for my daughter Maggie. What is not included in the kit that we would need to buy.

Our Surfboard Shaping Starter Kit includes all the materials, tools, and instruction needed to build a surfboard. Only thing needed to purchase is a leash from a surf shop when complete. 


Also your daughter will need to build shaping racks from wood and fiberglassing racks from wood, buckets and a bag of cement or sand. The total cost for those materials from Home Depot is about $30

I noticed that packed with the glass cloth are sheets of this thin tissue paper like product. I assume this is for doing artwork, right?

The logo rice paper can be printed on with an inkjet printer, or drawn on with posca pens, acrylic paint, or india inks. Do not use sharpie markers as they will bleed when wet out with resin. 


It is best to put the logo paper directly on the foam on the bottom of the board, and in between the two layers of fiberglass on the deck to protect it from sanding. You can also put it on top of a cured lamination and put a small piece of fiberglass over it. We use 1.5 oz fiberglass for this. It is common for board builders to laminate the board with a dark color pigment then put the logos on top of it with the 1.5 oz fiberglass cloth protecting the logos.


I was wondering if I get the surfer mag epoxy kit, what are the bare necessity tools I need to shape my board.

We have a shaping tool kit package with a few more useful tools than the bare necessities but to shape and glass the board with epoxy resin the minimal tools needed are as follows:


Handsaw

Shaping Rasp or G-rasp

Wood block or shaping block

Tiger Shark Sand Paper

Trim plane for stringer

Sandshark Rail Sanding Screen


Squeegee

Mixing Buckets

Scissors

4" Hotcoat Brush (2X)

Masking Tape


Holesaw for fin plug and leash plug install (if using FCS X-2 plugs or Factory Fin Plugs)

Surfboard Blanks

What is Engineered EPS Surfboard Blanks?

Consistent High Quality


Greenlight has teamed up with a major plastics manufacturer to design the optimal bead and compression process for EPS surfboards to improve surfboard strength, flex, practical weight, and shapability. We've even engineered the rocker and foils in our blank selection to yield any board you can imagine with the least amount of effort by hand or machine.

Our engineered EPS Blanks can also be customized to any thickness for a super close tolerance blank that requires very little shaping without the expense of paying for a machine shape. 

Greenlight's Engineered EPS Blanks Advantages:

  • Reduced Bead Tear out
  • when Shaping by Hand
  • or Machine

  • Low Resin Absorption

  • Calculated Rocker and Foil Designs

  • Completely Customizable

  • Quick Turn Around Time



What is the difference between EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) and Polyurethane (PU) Foam?

Surfboard are made from (and we sell) two types of foam blanks.


1. EPS Blanks - EPS stands for Expanded Polystyrene. EPS foam is lighter and stronger than Polyurethane foam blanks. It consists of small beads of polystyrene expanded with steam and fused together under high pressures. Greenlight's EPS blanks are engineered with a special bead formula for the optimal strength, flex, and shape-ability of the blank. There is a growing demand for EPS surfboards in the world due to its superior strength to weight ratio. 

The EPS blanks are rectangular in shape supplied with a rocker and foil. You can create any outline shape you want with EPS blanks.

Greenlight is a huge proponent of EPS surfboards and has been developing, manufacturing and selling EPS blanks for over 10 years. 

NOTE: EPS foam must be glassed with EPOXY resin! Polyester resin will melt the foam!


2. PU Blanks - PU stands for Polyurethane. It has been the standard surfboard core for over 50 years. PU blanks can be glassed with either polyester resin or epoxy resin (epoxy becoming more popular due to its superior strength). PU blanks are molded in the general shape a surfboard to reduce the amount of excess foam. Your surfboard shape outline still must be drawn on the blank and cut out.



What is an EPS blank?

EPS stands for Expanded Polystyrene. EPS foam is lighter and stronger than Polyurethane foam blanks. It is also recyclable.  There is a growing demand for EPS surfboards in the world due to its superior strength to weight ratio. 

Greenlight is a huge proponent of EPS surfboards and has been developing, making and selling EPS blanks for over 10 years. We have engineered our own EPS foam that is the only EPS foam specifically designed for surfboards on the market. 

NOTE: EPS foam must be glassed with EPOXY resin! Polyester resin will melt the foam!

How much does a custom EPS blank cost?

We manufacture all EPS blanks here at the shop and can cut up to 12' long. Please email info@greenlightsurfsupply.com with your blank dimensions and stringer option and we'll give you a quote. 

Typically a custom EPS shortboard blank will cost about $70

We can also take a AKU Shaper, Shape3D file or .dxf file you design and cut directly from that.

What is a PU foam blank?

PU stands for Polyurethane. It has been the standard surfboard core for over 50 years. PU blanks can be glassed with either polyester resin or epoxy resin (epoxy becoming more popular due to its superior strength).

How much does a custom US Blank Cost?

We order customs blanks for our customers all the time. Price depends on the blank size and stringer configuration you want. Please email info@greenlightsurfsupply.com for a quote.

What size blank should I get for my design?

US Blanks have a general surfboard rocker and outline. You will need to cut an outline with all blanks that we sell.  When selecting a US Blank you should try to find a blank that fits the dimensions of the board you are trying to shape.  US blanks are a close tolerance blank which mean that the outer part of the blank is the strongest foam and as you get closer to the center the foam will get softer, which makes blank selection critical to the strength of your surfboard. 
EPS blanks are uniform density throughout so you can get one a bit thicker than your finished board dimensions and shape away. EPS blanks are hotwire cut from a block of foam and have a rectangular outline which allows you the freedom of any outline you choose to cut. 

Can I buy a stringerless EPS blank and have you guys split it in half and ship FedEX cheaper?

Sure, we'll split your EPS blank no problem. Just put a note in the order to split the blank.

You can glue it up with a stringer or as a stringerless with Gorilla glue

What density foams do you stock?

Our Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) is available in our Engineered 2# cubic foot density. Other densities (1#, 1.5#) available upon request.

US Blanks we carry RED density & BLUE density for shortboard and midlength shapes, we also carry GREEN density in longboard blanks in addition to BLUE density.

I am about to shape my first board with my 11 year old son who is doing it for a school project and I wasn't sure what the letter means after the board length, . What does the S, U, and F stand for?

We use those letters to differentiate shapes of the same length. If you would like to let us know what you are interested in shaping we can help steer you in the right direction.

If i buy a surfboard blank do i just need to draw the shape I want and then cut it out?

Yes, you will need to draw a template on the board and cut it out to get your desired shape. We offer a selection of printable templates on our site if you are looking to get a pre made template.

I noticed your 6'3"EPS blank is similar to the Marko pescado dimensions. I can't tell without a top profile picture, is the nose flat across or already rounded? I'm making a board with a squash nose.

Our EPS blanks all have square noses and tails so you can make any shape you want.

My son is interested in shaping his first board. He's looking for a 6' 2" board and starter kit. He is located in NJ, can you recommend a blank and shapers starters kit?

Your son should get an "Up to 6'6" Fish, Egg, or Shortboard' or "Up to 6'4" Shortboard" beginner shaping kit. It depends on the type of board your son wants to shape... our 6'6" long kit is designed with extra foam in the surfboard blank to get the feel of shaping without ruining your efforts. 
We can ship the kit to your door or you can pick up at our shop if you'd like.

Would there be a way for me to order a longboard blank made with reverse rocker from you guys so I can shape a noserider?

You could use another longboard blank and 'flip" it so the nose rocker would be used for the tail (as long as your outline template fits in the nose area [which would be the tail of the blank when you flip it]) Some guys flip the US Blanks 98Y for nose rider designs.


Or we can custom order you a blank to whatever rocker you want. No problem.

I am looking to copy a Bing Gold Standard 9-2. I also am going to make an 8-0 funboard and another 5-6 mini simmons. What blanks would you recommend that I order? Also, what fiberglass do you recommend for the longboard?

For the 9'2" go with the US Blanks 93Y or 94B depending on the rocker you want to get. I'm not familiar with the Gold Standard rocker but my guess would be the 93Y.

US Blanks 84SP for the funshape and either a US Blanks 510RP or 6'2A for the mini simmons depending on your preference of nose rocker (510 more, 62A less..)

2 layers 6 oz deck / 1 layer 6 oz bottom for the longboard... or if you wanted to keep it lighter for your girl to carry you can do a 6/4 deck.

I had a few questions on the US Blanks. Is the outline already cut-out or does it come as a rectangular piece of foam/EPS

US Blanks have a general surfboard rocker and outline. You will need to cut an outline with all blanks that we sell.  When selecting a US Blank you should try to find a blank that fits the dimensions of the board you are trying to shape.  US blanks are a close tolerance blank which mean that the outer part of the blank is the strongest foam and as you get closer to the center the foam will get softer, which makes blank selection critical to the strength of your surfboard. 

You have stock list for blanks? I'm looking to swing down and grab a handful for a quick batch of short orders in the next week or so.

All our blanks available are listed on our website. Here's a link to the blank page.

We manufacture EPS blanks per order so please give us a few days before picking up. 

We carry US Blanks, Common Surf Foam, and cut EPS in 2.0#, 1.5#, and 1# densities.

Quantity discount pricing is shown on each blank page.

You can order online and we'll have them ready for you to pickup.


Feel free to contact us anytime if you have a question

what is the difference in Foam US Blanks /EPS/ Common Surf Foam

US Blanks and Common Surf Foam are PU blanks (polyurethane foam)

It has been the standard surfboard core for over 50 years. PU blanks can be glassed with either polyester resin or epoxy resin (epoxy becoming more popular due to its superior strength).

EPS stands for Expanded Polystyrene. EPS foam is lighter and stronger than Polyurethane foam blanks. It consists of small beads of polystyrene expanded with steam and fused together under high pressures. Greenlight's EPS blanks are engineered with a special bead formula for the optimal strength, flex, and shape-ability of the blank. There is a growing demand for EPS surfboards in the world due to its superior strength to weight ratio. 

Greenlight is a huge proponent of EPS surfboards and has been developing, manufacturing and selling EPS blanks for over 10 years. 

NOTE: EPS foam must be glassed with EPOXY resin! Polyester resin will melt the foam!

Does it cost $150/185 to ship 1 blank to my house

Please see our Shipping Info Page for different blank shipping costs.

How to I glue the blank and stringer together? Where do I look for this information?

Here's a link to the blank glue up instructional video: https://youtu.be/vcbdzGcQgnU


The video can also be found on each EPS blank product page


So you sell skimboard blanks?

Yes we have foam cutting files for various skimboard sizes. We can provide you an EPS foam blank any length in 2# density. Please contact us for a quote.



Do you sell wakesurf board blanks?

Yes, we have wakesurf board blanks and complete wakesurf board building kits available.


Please click here for our WakeSurf Board Building Section


I’ve never used EPS foam and understand that it takes some getting used to. What tools would you recommend? I’ve heard it’s best to use a planer with a drum as opposed to a blade?

Don’t believe all the hype, EPS is great to shape. A good deal of our customers prefer to shape their boards with it. We all use just a regular planer and do not switch out the blades.   We would recommend our Pro Tool series as they were designed to take down foam fast and efficiently, especially EPS beads.


I know you guys have a hot wire cutter I was just wondering if you did custom outlines and if so what program and/or file format do you need? What's the cost?

We use AKU Shaper .brd files, Shape3D .3dx files, or Autocad .dxf files. But you can send a pdf and we can trace it. Or just rocker numbers and we'll create the file for you. No problem.


Cost depends on length, foam density, and stringer material. Send a file over and we can quote it.

Do I need to vent EPS foam boards?

Venting an EPS board is like an "insurance policy" to prevent delamination. EPS boards contain very small air pockets between the foam beads which expand and contract with changing temperatures. If a board is dinged while surfing and water gets in, additional heat (leaving your board on the beach or in a hot car) will cause the water to change phase in to steam and exert pressure on the fiberglass skin - pushing the glass away from the foam (delamination).

It's up you to if you want to install a vented leash plug in your EPS board but we developed the VXVs because so many personal boards were having issues when not vented. Since installing VXVs in boards there has not been a single delam due to water expansion in a board in years. 

*It is highly recommended to install vented leash plugs in stand up paddle boards due to the large volume of foam that will expand and contract more in varying temperatures. All the major SUP manufacturers vent their boards with either a vented leash plug or a deck vent. 



I'm building a noserider longboard. I understand that increased tail rocker and decreased nose rocker can be helpful for noseriders but was wondering if you had some input.

It is popular to "Flip" a stock blank to increase the tail rocker and lessen the nose rocker. This is also called Reverse Rocker.

 A lot of guys just template the board with the at the tail of the blank if the outline fits.

We can easily build you a reverse rocker blank in any size if your outline templates don't fit on a stock blank that is flipped.

I have one of your EPS blanks. Before I glass it does it need to be sealed in any way? I have seen different things and just want to make sure. Thanks, I love the blank.

EPS blanks do not need to be sealed but sealing helps to use less resin and also provides a bright white uniform surface if you are doing color or artwork on the board. 


You can simply squeegee lightweight spackle on the board (mixed with bottled water to a mayonaise consistency) in a thin later to fill the small holes between the beads, or mix up a paste of epoxy and Q-cell and squeegee that on (makes a stronger board). 


There is also the option of finish sanding the board to 320 grit sanding screen to close up the cavities between the foam beads.

I just finished gluing the stringer and the foam blanks together, it is not perfectly aligned.

The glue up simply holds the blank together so you can shape it. An uneven glue up will just be a little more shaping to level everything out. Glassing the board provides all the strength and the glue is not really a factor in the board.


If you have space between the foam and stringer you can squeeze more glue in. It will expand to fill the gap and is shapeable.


Do I need to seal your engineered EPS blanks with spackle?

Our Engineered EPS foam does not require sealing. We recommend screening your final shape with 150 grit sanding screen to tighen up the bead structure for less resin absorption into the foam.


Sealing with lightweight spackle is highly recommended when glassing resin tint laminations or if you are painting the blank to give the blank a flatter surface for uniform color (no darker pools of resin)

How would I know which blank to buy, as that is the first important step?

The answer to your question is covered in detail on the first page of our Surfboard Building Guide. Please read through the guide to understand the entire process and you'll be confident in starting to shape your own boards.

Why is your Engineered EPS foam so special? Is it "super fused"

Our new foam is a consistent density throughout the blank and designed with a special mix of EPS beads that have high energy bond strength that reduces tear out and resin absorption. We could call it super duper fused but it's just marketing words. I've shaped "superfused" blanks that chunks of the rail blew off with one pass of the surform...


The blank rocker and foils are also special since we took a lot of time studying current modern rockers and designed the series of blanks to easily fit just about any board possible.

What kind of glue should I use to glue my blank up?

You can use epoxy resin but we recommend using Expanding Stringer Glue as it cures fast and is easy to sand.




What is EPS blank "tear out" I hear about?

Tear out is nothing to "worry" about. It is part of the process of shaping EPS. Our foam is the tightest bead bond in the industry but you will still get some beads that pull out. The idea of shaping EPS to to rip into it with the most aggressive tools to remove the foam them go over it with finer grits of sandpaper or sanding screen to close the small bead voids up. 

If you are painting or doing a resin tint it is advised to apply a thin coat of lightweight spackle on the board to make it a clean, bright white surface to have even color. 

A clear glass job or opaque pigmented resin lamination does not require spackling.


Need advice for how to fix my stringer and foam glue up. There is a gap between the stringer and foam.

No big deal. If you have more Stringer Glue left just squeeze it in the void and it will expand. It's foam too and easily shapeable. If it looks weird you can put a logo over the area, paint the board, or do a pigmented lamination to cover it.

How do I order a custom EPS foam blank?


You can design a file from free design programs like AKU Shaper or Shape3D software and upload it when you order a custom cut close tolerance EPS surfboard blank. 

How do I order a custom EPS foam blank?


You can just email the specs of your blanks, length, thickness, nose and tail rockers and we'll draw it for you. 


Or you can send a file from free design programs like AKU Shaper or Shape3D software and we can work with that. 

Any tips for getting the stringer glue off your fingers?

When the glue is fully cured you'll be able to peel it off your skin. Maybe rub some sandpaper or file on it to break it up. We're peeling glue off body parts all the time here

I am curious which way I should go on the stringer. Foam or wood? Which is stronger and has better resistance to snapping?

Your stringer choice really depends on performance and style. 1/8" basswood stringers have been standard for decades and work really well. Our new HD foam stringers give the board more "pop" out of turns and are just as strong as the 1/8" basswood. The HD foam stringers also give you a choice of color and can be shaped with the same tools as used on the foam. No wood tools needed.

In the end, the snap resistance of a board really depends on the amount of fiberglass you put on the board. An all 4 oz glass board is much more susceptibe to breaking than a board with a mix of 6 oz and 4 oz glass or an all 6 oz glassed board (longboards or old school fish).

When I glued the EPS blank there is a small gap between in the stringer and foam in certain places. Is it a serous issue?

The gap is no issue for strength of the board, the fiberglass shell is 90% of the strength after glassed. To make it look good you can squirt more glue into the gap and let it expand. If you have clamps then use them to pull the foam to the stringer and it will be 100% glued correctly. 

Do I need to spackle my EPS blank?

If you're doing a clear, white board or pigmented lamination no need to fine sand. You can leave it at around 80 grit and glass. It will use a bit more resin as the small voids in the foam will fill with resin before the glass is saturated. 

If painting or tinting the resin you can either spackle or fine sand up to 150 screen to close the voids in the foam. Spacking is easier...

SURFBOARD TEMPLATES

How do I make my own templates?

Please take a look at the 'MAKING TEMPLATES' Section of our Surfboard Building Guide for a complete explanation of the different methods of making templates.

In your longboard template section... Each length has a letter next to it... What do these letters stand for? Ultimately Im hoping to make a badass nose rider...

The template letters next to the length are just to identify different templates of the same length. 


The best noserider template we offer in my opinion is the 9'6W as it is designed with a wider nose and square tail for nose riding. The other templates are more high performance or cruiser designs.


I see you have a bunch of outline templates available. Can you make me a custom template?

Sorry we don't make custom templates. Please refer to our Surfboard Shaping Guide for different methods of making your own templates.

The stock templates we have are all HERE on the site. They are starting points for your shape. You can make a single fin from any of them or modify the template to what you feel looks right.

I want to shape something along the lines of a channel islands biscuit. I was wondering how I could make a template that would be 5'6 X 20 1/4 X 2 3/4.  Should i freehand it or use some sort of software. 

Read our Surfboard Building Guide A-Z. Making templates if covered in the writeup.

How can I make a masonite template for a longboard when the masonite sheets at Home Depot are only 8' long?

If your board is over 8' long and you need to make a two-sided 'spin' or 'flip' template, you simply draw the nose half of the board on one side of the template, and the tail half of the board on the other side. Just make sure that you mark stringer points on both ends and top/bottom of the template to mark the point where you will place the template down on the stringer when you trace your outline on the surfboard blank.

I want to use your board templates and I want to build the stringer by myself. Where can i get the dimensions of the stringer that will fit to the board blank? Thank you very much!

There are no standard dimensions for a surfboard rocker (the stringer) since it all depends on the waves you surf and how you want the board to perform. 

Stock surfboard blanks have proven rockers that are a great starting point and maybe a little adjustment is needed while shaping to get the desired rocker you want to surf.

Typically, if you are making your own stringer, you simply trace the blank foam outline on a piece of wood and cut out to match. Then glue it all together. 

If you want some dimensions to start you can copy the rocker on our 6'3 Fish blank

When I purchase your template, can the pieces be slid up or down, and from side to side, to match any width or height between 9 feet and 12 feet? Or, do I need to specify this when ordering?

The 12'6" SUP outline template has parallel rails through the middle of the board so you can take out sections of the middle to reduce the length without changing the overall shape. No need to specify the length you want when ordering.


To make the board wider you simply move the template away from the stringer and draw curves on the blank to extend the outline to the stringer. You can do it free hand, make your own paper template for the extensions, or bend a flexible piece of wood, plastic, or metal to get your extension curve.

Do you have rocker templates?

Sorry we do not supply rocker templates. There are no standard dimensions for a surfboard rocker (along the stringer) since it all depends on the waves you surf and how you want the board to perform. 

Stock surfboard blanks have proven rockers that are a great starting point and maybe a little adjustment is needed while shaping to get the desired rocker you want to surf.

Extensive info on ROCKER can be found in our Surfboard Design Guide


Do you have Rail shape templates?

There is no physical railband template but we provide the rail band dimensions to lay out on your board. The dimensions depend on thickness of the board and out chart is made for a 2 1/2" thick board. A little math is needed to calculate railband dims for other thicknesses. 


The railband numbers can be found in our Surfboard Building Guide, here they are as well. 


Railband Reference drawing for a fish


How do you use your Greenlight Surfboard Templates?

When using templates it's always a good idea to measure out the width you want the board to be and pencil in a dot at the widest point on each side of the stringer. Then line up the template to that dot and parallel to the stringer. Then trace the line and connect the nose and tail lines if needed. 


Templates are all about the curves that work well in the water and not so much about numbers.

How do I know the width of the template?

We designed the templates to be any width you want by moving it closer to the stringer for a narrower board or further for a wider board. We believe you should have control over the design and dimension of your board and not be locked into a board that is designed for someone else. 

Our templates are mostly all about the curve and the flow of water around the plan shape. Width dimensions only determine the rail-to-rail stability of the board. 

HOW TO SHAPE A SURFBOARD

General Information on Surfboard Shaping

Please review the Surfboard Shaping section of our Surfboard Building Guide for general info in shaping a surfboard, Stand Up Paddleboard, Kiteboard, Wakeskate, etc.

If you have specific questions on surfboard shaping, please enter search terms in this extensive FAQ & knowledge database to find your answer. If the answer to your question is not in our HELP CENTER, please email info@greenlightsurfsupply.com for assistance. 

Railbands. Looking at the "simple rail dims chart", it displays one single value for rail mark. Do I have to use the same rail mark on all the board length or shall I multiply by dimension as far as I go further or backward on the board?

Your nose and tail rail marks can vary by the nose and tail depending on the type of board you are shaping. In a high performance shape you will have a rail mark at the nose that is 1/2" and the center and tail marks at 1" to account for the foil of the board as shown here 

Each board can be a little different so don't be afraid to adjust the numbers slightly to account for the rail thickness you desire.
Reference:
Simple Rail Bands Chart - (midpage)

Boxy Rail Bands
Knifey Rail Bands



Can I use your Rail Runner tool to shape the rail bands?

The "fred tool" part of the rail runner is for the bottom tuck only. The bottom tuck is normally anywhere from a 3/8" - 3/4" radius (depending on your preference) and the rail bands are cut in the the rail runner. 

The deck rail bands are much bigger and not a "radius" but an arc or curve. The rail bands are created with a power planer or G-rasp tool and the sharp corners of the rail bands are cut down by rail screen (you should be using a more aggressive screen like the sand shark screen to shape the rails down... they'll come out round and less angular or boxy)

Think of the rail bands as facets of a diamond. Flat surfaces intersecting at points. There is a curve hiding in there that is exposed when the corners are screened off.

Inline image 1

More info and dimensions for rail band shaping in our Surfboard Building Guide

I know the kit does not come with any electric power tools such as an electric planer. Just wondering do you need a specific kind of electric planer like the ones you guys offer on your site, or can you use pretty much any kind of planer?

Any planer will work to shape a board.
We offer an entry level electric power planer that works great for shaping all types of foam and is simple to use.
The Hitachi modified planer is a surfboard specific planer with on the fly depth adjustment, a bit more power, and better dust control. The modified Hitachi makes shaping railbands much easier and allows you to shape your surfboard's foil and rocker fluidly as you can adjust the depth of the cut while walking the board. It is a great tool for the experienced shaper or anyone that plans on shaping a bunch of boards.

You can also use a stock planer like a Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, etc. The planing techniques are different since there is no adjustability but the goal is to remove foam quickly with a planer, which stock planers off the shelf will do. There is just more hand shaping with a G-rasp and Rasputin involved when using a stock power planer.

Another note, if you choose a stock planer make sure it has 2 blades for a smoother cut on foam. A single blade power planer will tear the foam like crazy and make more work for you!

I'd like to get a blank and glass to shape a handplane as a weekend project. Are you able to help? I see you have all that's needed for glassing, but not quite sure about the blank (whatever material's easiest to shape).

We can supply you with all of the materials that you need. We would suggest EPS foam and epoxy resin with some 4 oz fiberglass. If you would like to use a strap system we would suggest a 4 leash plug setup. If this fits your needs we can get a handplane kit setup for you. Just shoot us and email with your handplane blank request info@greenlightsurfsupply.com

There are bead tear-out areas are around the nose and along the stringer of my EPS shape. I don't want to keep removing foam and take a chance at screwing it up. What is the secret to sanding them out if I should do that?

To fill in any marks we spackle the entire board with light weight white spackle.  Then you can take screen and smooth out all the spackle once it has dried.  This is purely an aesthetic step to give the board a perfect look to the finish.  

If I leave out the stringer would I have to use carbon on the rails or will it be strong enough without?

We suggest laminating a strip of the Uni directional carbon fiber along the centerline of the bottom of the board or you can wrap the rails with the Uni directional carbon fiber for more torsional strength.

You can also laminate the bottom of the board with VectorNET carbon fiber reinforcement for additional strength.

It is recommended to do at minimum lamination of 1 layer 6 oz and 1 layer 4 oz on the deck to reduce pressure denting from your feet. 

I want to shape a fish. With the 6.6 is it possible to shape a fish and be able to use the fish "paper" templates that you supply on your web site?

Absolutely, the 6'6" blank is designed for first time shapers and you can make any size board from it up to 6'6". Our paper templates work well on all blanks.

Could you tell me where I can get the rail band measurements from?

Our Railband dimensions are in the Shaping section of our Surfboard Shaping Guide.

I planed the bottom of the board and for my first time I was quite surprised at how well it turned out, but on the deck I tried the planer when I reached the top quarter of the board the curve of the board lifted the center of the planer and nothing cut.

Due to the nose rocker curve in the deck of a surfboard planer blades cannot easily get to the foam in that area. A trick is to turn the planer on an angle so the barrel is more parallel to the stringer in the nose curve area. It's not easy and most beginners just use a G-rasp or tigershark paper on a hard block to shape that area.

I'm working on some boards now, and I'm trying to remember the tool you guys use to take down the stringer without messing up the foam around unnecessarily. If I recall, you use something other than a mini-block plane.

A spokeshave is the tool you want to take down the stringer.

I started shaping a noserider.  I foiled the blank and put slight vee in the tail. The problem is that after I put in all that tail rocker in the tail, the tail is almost paper thin.

Most blanks do not need a lot of added rocker since the blanks are designed with proven curves. Blank selection is very important. If adding more than 3/4" of tail rocker choose a longer blank and cut the excess length from the tail so there is extra foam thickness to shape into. Good shapers plan their shapes first and choose the best blank for the least amount of work.

In this case we'd cut the tail shorter to where you have about 1/2" of tail pod thickness and reshape it a little. Chalk it up to a learning experience, the board will still surf fine and you'll be stoked on it.

I won't be able to put in a fin box because I shaped the tail too thin. So i would have to glass on a skeg. Should I just cut off the tail and shape a smaller design or will I be able to still salvage this blank for a noserider? 

Sounds like the board won't surf as you had intended it to. No shame in salvaging the blank and shaping something different. 

You can certainly glass on a fin, that's cool too. And you get a lot of extra glassing experience when glassing on fins. It's a good thing to do at least once in your board building life.

You could use another longboard blank and 'flip" it so the nose rocker would be used for the tail (as long as your outline template fits in the nose area [which would be the tail of the blank when you flip it]) Some guys flip the US Blanks 98Y for nose rider designs.

Or we can custom order you a blank to whatever rocker you want. No problem.

Is the EPS blank sealing spackle for glueing the blanks together or is it for when you glass it ?

The EPS sealing paste is used after shaping to fill in 'tear outs' and provide a nice looking, bright white surface to glass. Use stringer glue or epoxy to glue up the blank.

I was interested in making my own flowboard of foam. I currently have a wood one I was interested in making a 39 inch board with channels since they don't offer channels on the foam boards.

We can help you out. No problem. Please schedule a time to bring your flowboard by the shop to talk about it. 

With a wood tail block is the idea to glue it and clamp it....like when you glue the EPS blanks?

Yes, after shaping the foam blank chop off the end and glue a wood tailblock on. Use masking tape to hold the block in place. Then carefully shape the block into the desired tail shape.

How do you make a wood tailblock? wood glue? how do you attach it to the foam? is the glassing process the same?

Glue and clamp pieces of wood together. You can use wood glue, gorilla glue, or resin. When the tailblock is cured and you can glue it to the board.

How do you calculate the nose and tail rail band markings since those will be tapered? Would you apply the same multiplication to those suggested markings for the nose and tail rail bands using the table for say a 3" thick board?

Yes just do the calculations based on your board's thickness in the midpoint, nose, and tail... the goal is to keep the railbands smooth and flowing so don't get caught up in the numbers too much.
Here it is for reference

Hey guys I was doing some research on rail band guideline charts and I understand your the man to come to! When you have some time can you please email me the PDF for your guidance chart for rail bands ?

The railband dimensioned layout drawings are found in our free Surfboard Building Guide A-Z

Railband layouts: Relative to the midpoint rail band dim are they typically about a 1/2" - 1/4" difference? Or am I just overthinking this way too much and looking for exact measurements on everything because I’m afraid of screwing up? haha.

Yes, the railbands will taper in the nose and tail areas up to a 1/2" difference from the midpoint dims. It's all relative to the foil of the board. If you are unsure what the railbands will look like simply mark the railband dimensions at the midpoint, 12" from the nose and 12" from the tail and connect the dots with a pencil. Follow the flow of the foil with the line. If the line looks good and matches the flow of the foil then go cut it. If it doesn't look good make a new line until you find what looks right to you. 

I cut out the outline for the Board and now ready for foliing the blank. Do you have a suggestion for thickness and rocker sizes for the 62A blank using a 5'11" template. The Board will be used by a 13 year old - currently approximately 100 pounds.

Aim for 2 1/2" thick with 4" nose rocker (1/2" thick at tip) and a 1 1/2" tail rocker (~5/8" thick tail). Foil the flow of foam to be 2 1/2" thick at the midpoint a bit forward of the midpoint of the outine.

Have fun and feel free to contact us anytime if you have a question or need anything.

Im looking into building my own wakesurf board. They're shorter than all of your kits, only about 5' give or take. Wondering if you have anything suitable or know any previous customers who have done the same using your products.

We certainly do have a lot of customers who make Wakeboards with our materials. 

We do custom cuts for wakeboards since there are so many styles. 

The blank can be shipped to your door cut in half and you glue it up for between $35-$50 depending on where you live.

Let us know if you have any questions or would like us to cut you a blank

I'm shaping my board right now and it's coming out just as I want it to, the only problem is it's a little too think. Is there an easier way to thin it out beside just keep sanding it?

Normally guys use a power planer to mow down the foam to the thickness you want. 

By hand, the trick is to shape the stringer down first with a trim plane, then level the foam to the stringer with a G-rasp or shaping rasp.

i want to use EPS blanks. Apart from the shaping kit are there any other tools you sell that would make life a lot easier, spokeshave maybe? Iv watched people butcher EPS foam before.

Yes I definitely recommend a spokeshave for fine tuning the stringer and not tearing the foam. But, tear-outs are a common occurance with EPS foam and there is no way around it. There are 2 ways to remedy tear-outs

1. after shaping spread a thin layer of lightweight spackle over the blank to fill in the holes - or you can use an epoxy / Q-cell slurry which gives the board more strength but increases weight a bit.

or

2. Use various sanding screens and foam shaping pad to close up the tear outs. Each progressive sanding screen grit will shave the EPS bead down and not tear. We use up to 320 grit to close them all up... 

Please note the quality of the foam has a lot to do with it... make sure the blank in at least 2# density. Also, sharp tools and shaping a little slower help reduce tearouts.


I have used Micro-planes before and in my option they do not take enough foam away. Takes forever to get the shape you want.


We developed PRO-TOOLS to aggressively and efficiently shape EPS foam. They do cause a little tearing which is normal but finishing the shape with spackle or sanding screen makes the board look like a polyurethane blank..

I was wondering if you have Greenlight Surfboard Design Guide Vol. 4. I have vol. 1, 2, 4, and 5 but can’t get a hold of 4 on the web.

You can find all the Design Guides here: http://greenlightsurfsupply.com/pages/surfboard-design-guide

I'm interested in a power planer after shaping a few boards by hand. I don't think I can swing the bucks for a Hitachi, but I see you now offer a low cost power planer. Give me an honest appraisal. Since I only make one or two boards

Our surfboard shaping power planer is a great value for a power tool but you can use any planer to skin and shape a blank. Whatever you can find for the lowest cost as long as it has 2 blades. 1 blade will tear the heck out the the foam.

Do you still use a jigsaw and your homemade blade to cut outlines? I cut down the saw blade from a reciprocating saw to use in my jigsaw but tends to deform the cut a bit. It's hard to find a blade that is stiff enough to cut accurately.

I use a 6" Sawzall blade in my jigsaw to cut the outlines then a railrunner to square it up, or a hard block with sandpaper. (We have plastic Rail Runners for less cost as well)

Diablo 6 in. x 6-12 Teeth per in. Demo Demon Nail-Embedded Wood Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade (5-Pack)

Shaping room lighting. I'm building a second shaping room and considering T12 lights. I used T8 lights in my first shaping room. Any comments?

T12 lights are fine for a shaping room, they put out a bit more light than T8 bulbs. Doesn't really matter, we're looking at shadows on a blank and not necessarily the light.... Position them about 2" above the top of a blank on your shaping racks.

Looking forward to trying out the new rasp set. What kind of feedback have you had from your customers who have purchased them?


The only feedback we've gotten has been very positive except one guy wore out the grit by trying to shape a stringer which is advised not to do on the site. 


I have a question about the power planer (non-hitachi) you sell. Will your planer make smooth cuts on eps? Also is it modified to adjust cutting depth like the hitachi knob does?

The power planer is great for both EPS blanks and PU foam (I've shaped many with this planer) but does not have the on-the-fly depth adjustment of the modified Hitachi. 


The adjustment is nice but not necessary to shape a board. With a non-adjusting planer, I usually keep it cutting full depth for the major foam removal and finish the delicate parts in the nose and tail by hand.  


Do you sell Rail Band Templates?

Sorry, we don't sell rail band templates. It's almost impossible to have standard rail band templates due to various thicknesses in everyone's foils and length of board. You can make rail band templates to copy boards but not a one-off shape.


Railbands must be shaped according to the board's foil, thickness, and flow as well as the surfer's preference in rail shape. 


Laying out railbands is pretty simple. Here are examples of Boxy and Knifey rail bands. Use the chart below to lay out the rail bands you want.



Inline image 1

I was going to use a jig saw to cut the outline. What type of blade would I use?

It is best to reshape a SAWZALL blade to fit your jigsaw. Takes a little elbow grease and a file or grinder if you have one. It helps to bend an kink in the tab to help the blade stay in the jigsaw.

Get a 6" one that is wide like this to help keep the cut straight. Any brand will do...


i'm shaping my first surf board fish from your 5'6''B emplate. How i manage to get the right thickness from nose to tail?

The foil (thickess) of a board is all dependent on the midpoint thickness and volume of foam you need to float. 


Most blanks have the foil already shaped in and not much additional tweaking is needed, unless you choose a blank that is not right for the shape.


If you're making a 3" thick board at the middle, the thickness at 12" from the nose and tail will be somewhere in the 1 1/2" to 2" thick range. 


There is not right or wrong numbers. It all works. 

Here is a reference drawing for the how the rail band dimensions change along the foil of the board that may help you see the proportions of thickness.


You can measure the thickness of your current surfboards as a guide too.

How do I shape a channels on the bottom of my board?

It's simple to shape channels though. Just use a hard block with sandpaper wrapped around it and shape the channels by putting pressure on the corner of the block.


My outline cut is uneven and wobbly. How do I fix it?

The outline cut is the most crucial aspect to the way your board looks and any dips or wobbles in the outline will show up in the rail and you can't get it out at that point.

For a flawless outline we make a tool called the Rail Runner that does the work for you. It also shapes the bottom tuck of the rail which is one of the most critical aspects of a board since it determines how much "grip" into the wave the board will have so it's best to undershape it to start and screen it to the radius you want. As soon as you cut that tuck railband a little too much the foam is gone and you're intended rail shape is altered. 

When using my trim plane on the stringer it gouges the foam next to it. How do I avoid that?

First, the trim plane is not the best tool for finish passes on the stringer to make it flush with the foam. You want to use a spokeshave for that.

When using the trim plane drag it along the stringer on a 45 degree angle to help keep it flat and not rock sideways which can gauge the foam. Also go along the grain of the wood. You'll know when you're going against the grain because the trim plane will dig in deep an get stuck.

You can also file a radius on the edges of the trim plane blade to keep them from hitting the foam.





How do you calculate the nose and tail dims if the rail bands since those will be tapered?

This is covered in our Surfboard Building Guide. The calculations based on your board's thickness in the midpoint, nose, and tail... the goal is to keep the railbands smooth and flowing so don't get caught up in the numbers too much.

Here is an illustration on railbands but here it is for reference

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0689/1441/files/Surfboard-rail-band-dimensions-boxy-full-fish-egg-rail-shape_2a15f067-9b86-42cf-b8c0-6ab288a8ad20.pdf?16216708058669744041

Here are suggested rail band dimensions. 


The railbands will taper in the nose and tail areas up to a 1/2" difference from the midpoint dims. It's all relative to the foil of the board. If you are unsure what the railbands will look like simply mark the railband dimensions at the midpoint, 12" from the nose and 12" from the tail and connect the dots with a pencil. Follow the flow of the foil with the line. If the line looks good and matches the flow of the foil then go cut it. If it doesn't look good make a new line until you find what looks right to you. 



What is the difference between your steel PRO TOOLS and the PVC plastic tools?

The only difference between the PVC and steel tools is that the steel are heavier and require less "elbow grease" to shape foam as well as come with a lifetime warranty. They both give the same results on the foam.

I'm shaping my board right now and it's coming out just as I want it to, the only problem is it's a little too thick. Is there an easier way to thin it out beside just keep sanding it?

Normally guys use a power planer to mow down the foam to the thickness you want. 


By hand, the trick is to shape the stringer down first with a trim plane, then level the foam to the stringer with a G-rasp or shaping rasp.

If i were to follow your A-Z Guide, what would i need to purchase off your site (building material wise), I have most of the necessary tools but was wondering for the actual material of the board.

If you have all the tools you'll just need a blank, resin, fiberglass, finboxes, and a leash plug to build a board.


We offer surfboard building kits in traditional materials or newer epoxy materials.


You might also want to consider getting just a blank, a beginner glassing kit, and fin boxes of your choice.


How to get EPS foam smooth without spackle? Screen or sandpaper?

We screen EPS with 100 / 150 / 220 / then 320 grit for a super smooth, spackle-free surface. Each screen grit cuts the beads until all the small voids between beads are gone. We use a foam sanding pad with the screen to even out contours.  It's more work than spackling but leaves a very nice and clean foam surface.

I've watched a few videos on YouTube and see they use electric planers I was wondering are they special designed planers or just standard from a hardware store

There are power planers out there specifically designed for surfboard shaping with on-the-fly adjustments for tapering foam(a huge help for shaping rocker, foil, and rails), special dust chutes and handles but any planer will do the job. Just make sure it's got 2 blades so it doesn't tear the foam. 

We sell an affordable entry level power planer that does a great job on both PU and EPS foam as well as stringers. 

When foiling my board how do I know how thick to go on the nose and tail and at the intermediate points?

While there are no concrete numbers to sufboards it's a good idea when you start to keep more foam in the board that you can fine tune in the end before glassing. 


Aim for a 1/2" thick nose tip and a 5/8" tail tip thickness. Then foil your board for a nice flowing line from the nose to tail. Don't get caught up in the numbers too much. Water doesn't know numbers...


Here's more info on Foil from our Design Guide:


SURFBOARD FOIL

The change in thickness you notice when you view aboard from the side is referred to as foil. This thickness flow in most modern boards is smooth and even, without noticeable lumps or transitions. Foil determines to a great degree the overall volume of the board, how it flexes, the degree to which it can be flexed before it snaps, and whether the board is designed for long drivey turns or quick snaps. In general, thinner boards (2 3/8 inches thick or less at the thickest point) will be more flexy, harder to paddle, and less drivey… but more responsive. These boards are most suited for better surf, smaller or more advanced surfers, and strong paddlers. Thicker boards (2 1/2+ inches thick or more at the thickest point) will be less likely to snap but stiffer in terms of flex, will be easier to paddle due to increased buoyancy, and be more drivey. They will be more difficult to control in bigger surf, but work better in weak, small or slow waves because the added volume will allow them to catch waves easier and give the rider something to “push off of” when putting the board on a rail. A thinner board would have a tendency to sink under these conditions. Obviously, heavier and more powerful surfers require boards with more volume for flotation and to resist being pushed too deeply into the water and stalling on a hard turn.
While a trained eye can get a good feel for what the overall thickness flow is doing, and what it is intended for, by viewing from the side, the best way to quantify foil is by taking measurements along the length of the board using calipers. Measurements are most often taken at 12 inches from the nose and tail, 24 inches from the nose and tail, and at the wide point. Typically, boards are 1/8 to 1/4 inch thicker 12 inches from the tail than from the nose, and 1/16 to 1/8 inch thicker 24 inches from the tail than from the nose. The thickest point is typically found at the wide point. Boards designed for drive over responsiveness have their wide points and thick points ahead of center. Retro boards, single fins, classic longboards, and guns are good examples. These boards paddle better because the concentration of foam volume is under the chest when lying prone, and the center of the buoyant force is closer to the front foot when riding. Modern performance shortboards, however, have their wide and thick points behind center, which makes them inherently more difficult to paddle, but have a tighter turning radius. Rather than having the bulk of volume under the chest and front foot, the thick point back puts the concentration of foam between the surfers feet, better facilitating back-footed, rail-to-rail surfing.

How important it is to have the board totally smooth and even before glassing?

It's a good idea to get the stringer flush with the foam so the fiberglass lays flat across the stringer. If it is not flat there will be a gap and there's a good chance the glass will crack there letting water into the board. 


Also, a smooth, clean shape is easier to sand. Wavey rails, high and low spots on the deck and bottom will cause a lot more work sanding.


Take your time to get the shape as nice a possible (without overshaping) and you'll find the glassing and sanding process will go pretty smoothly.

Rail band dimensions at 12" from nose and tail?

The board is foiled from nose to tail so the thickness of the rail is different at 12" from the nose than the midpoint of the board. The rail band chart shows dims for the center of a 2 1/2" thick board. You can measure the thickness of your nose and tail at 12" marks and do a little math to determine the rail marks based on your midpoint rail bands. 

After a few boards you can just eye it up though. The most important thing is to keep the rail shape flowing along with the rocker and foil.


How do I flatten the deck and bottom to square up with the rail outline cut?

Flattening the bottom and deck can be done by hand with two tools: a stringer trim plane and Greenlight Rasputin Tool


Surfboard shaping flattening deck and bottom

I'm done shaping my blank and it has a slight gap by the stringer at the tail end what do I do to fill that in?

Squeeze some Gorilla glue into the gap. It will expand and fill it then you can sand down any excess and glass the board.

More info on shaping rail bands

Let me preface this reply with the fact that water doesn't know numbers, it's the flow of shape that matters. Numbers are only a guideline to shaping what looks good to our eyes and feels good to our hands. 


That being said the railband dimensions change at 12" from the nose and 12" from the tail due to the tapering foil of the blank's profile and the narrower nose and tail widths than the midpoint. 


Most importantly you want to copy the bottom rocker onto the side rail and make that taper slightly in the nose and tail areas. The deck rail bands will affect overall volume of the board and shape of the top rail. 


You can do math to calculate the rail mark dimensions at the nose and tail based the change in thickness compared to the midpoint.  For example, a 2 1/2" thick midpoint rail mark of 1 5/8" [1.63 / 2.5 = ~60% for a 60/40 rail] will reduce down to 1" if the foil thickness is 1 5/8" @ 12" from the nose (~60%)


You can put your rail marks on the board and trace them out (making a tool for that is fine but I use my hand and drag my pinkie along the edge or bottom to trace the outline or rocker and adjust the curve while walking to hit the rail mark dots - or come close. 


Then take a look and if you don't like it, make adjustments. It'll all shape off when tools hit the foam.


The apex is between the rail mark and top of tuck and will appear when screening the rail bands to round them off.

Should I measure my railband marks at the mid point of the board or the wide point? My wide point is 4" in front of the mid point.

Always use the midpoint of the length of your board for the railband measurement, not the widepoint. Although the widepoint being only 4" away will not really affect the railband dimension as the board's thickness should be pretty much the same in that area.

What grit sandpaper would you recommend for shaping the rails on those EPS foam blanks?

We recommend the most aggressive grit you can get your hands on to shape the foam quicky. We have Tigershark sandpaper which is 36 grit and also our Greenlight shaping rasps are 16 grit and are the most efficient way to shape next to using a power planer. 

Where can I find info on rail bands and rail shape designs?

You can find the rail band designs in the shaping section of our Surfboard Building Guide.

Do I need to use an electric power planer to shape my board?

No, you absolutely do not need an electric power planer. We recommend shaping your first few boards by hand with the tools included in the kit to understand what you're doing and have control over how much foam is removed. As soon as you put a power tool between you and the foam there's no telling what mistakes will happen as you're trying to get the hang of both the proper sculpting of foam as well as how to use the planer correctly on foam. Once you shape a board or two by hand and understand the process and how the shape comes along then you can use a planer to take some of the elbow grease out of it...


We do offer customization of your blank to take away most of the useless power planing to thickness. If you'd like we can provide your blank 1/4" thicker than your final shape thickness so you only have to scrub a total of 1/4" of foam (1/8" from deck and bottom) which is pretty quick with out rasps provided in the kit. If you want a custom blank thickness just put a note in the "custom blank specifications" section of the cart and we'll cut it the that thickness. No problem. 

Do I need to use an electric power planer to shape my board?

No, you absolutely do not need an electric power planer. We recommend shaping your first few boards by hand with the tools included in the kit to understand what you're doing and have control over how much foam is removed. As soon as you put a power tool between you and the foam there's no telling what mistakes will happen as you're trying to get the hang of both the proper sculpting of foam as well as how to use the planer correctly on foam. Once you shape a board or two by hand and understand the process and how the shape comes along then you can use a planer to take some of the elbow grease out of it...


We do offer customization of your blank to take away most of the useless power planing to thickness. If you'd like we can provide your blank 1/4" thicker than your final shape thickness so you only have to scrub a total of 1/4" of foam (1/8" from deck and bottom) which is pretty quick with out rasps provided in the kit. If you want a custom blank thickness just put a note in the "custom blank specifications" section of the cart and we'll cut it the that thickness. No problem. 

HOW TO INSTALL SURFBOARD FIN BOXES

I would like to get the Black Label Side bites with FCS base so which fin plugs or boxes should I use?

The easiest fin box system to install for the side bite would be the Factory fin plugs, or FCS X-2 plugs. You can also buy inexpensive quick set jigs and FCS T-3 Holesaw to install the plugs. 

I have FACTORY / FCS X-2 plugs, how are they installed?

CLICK HERE for the FCS X-2 Fin Plug Install Manual

More detailed install info below:

NOTE: For EPS boards use Slow Hardener Epoxy or set the plugs with 2 resin pours to reduce exotherm and prevent melting the foam. See Step 4. 


1. FCS X-2 and FACTORY plugs are installed after the seal coat. After installation and the resin has cured, you sand them down flush with the board while sanding the bottom.


2. Once you have the quickset jigs laid out on the board (lined up with your shapers dots) you will use a FCS Hole Saw bit or FACTORY Holesaw to make your holes for the plugs. Drill the hole 5/8" deep and pull the foam out with needle nose pliers or dig out with a flathead screwdriver. 


3. We suggest using either FCS dummy jigs or a set of fins to set the plugs with the correct spacing as well as adjust the fin cant angle. Lightly screw the plugs onto the dummy jig tabs. If using fin keep the plugs loose on the fin tabs so you can push them down to where the "nubs" on the plugs touch the seal coat.


4. Polyester boards: Mix 1 oz of resin per plug. (6 oz total for a tri-fin, 8 oz total for a quad). 

    EPS boards:  Use Slow Cure epoxy resin, or if using Fast cure, mix 1/2 oz resin per plug. Pour resin in the holes about 1/3rd deep to set the plugs in. You will come back and fill the rest of the perimeter in another step. Doing 2 separate pours will prevent the EPS foam from potentially melting from epoxy exotherm. 


5. Polyester Board: Pour about 1/2 oz of mixed resin into the holes. 

    EPS Board: Pour about 1/2 oz mixed resin into the holes.


6. Place the plugs in the holes with the dummy jig or fins to ensure proper alignment. Set the fin cant to the desired angle and hold in place with tape. Here is an illustration of taping the fins in place (these are glass ons but same taping methods apply to FCS fin plugs)



7. Polyester Boards: Using a small cup (dixie cups work great) carefully pour resin around the perimeter of the plug so it runs into the drilled hole. Be careful not to over fill! Fill just under the lip of the plug and jig. 

   EPS Boards: Let the first pour cure for about 2 hours then mix another 1/2 oz epoxy resin per plug and top off.


Once the resin cures remove the jigs and sand the plugs down until they are flush with the board.  



Are the dummy fins in the futures one pass install kit supposed to be canted out 6.5 degrees according to the angle finder?

Yes, the front dummy fin cant is 6.5 degrees, the rears and sitebite fins are 4 and 3 degree, respectively.

How much resin and catalyst do you use for installing FCS X-2 fin plugs?

½ oz per X-2 plug, mix ½ cc MEKP per ½ oz polyester resin: so for a tri fin (6 X-2 plugs) mix 3 oz poly resin and 1.5 cc catalyst
You can download our resin chart HERE which includes info on how much resin to use for finboxes

When do you glass on the fins and how do you do it?

Glass the fins on after laminating the board and before hotcoating. You'll hotcoat the board and fins all at the same time. Watch this video to learn how to glass on fins.

Where should I put my fins? How far from the tail and in from the rail?

Check out Greenlight's Fin Position Layout Guide HERE

I installed regular fcs plugs on a board and somehow got a small leak that cause a major delam. What is the pro install fcs X-2 plugs on an epoxy board.

FCS Fusion fin boxes were invented because of the growing popularity of EPS/Epoxy construction. Not to say you can't use the traditional X-2 plugs but it's a longer process. You need to pour a little epoxy in the hole to set the plugs, then a few hours later you finish off with more resin. A 2 part pour reduces exotherm which melts the EPS causing a weak install. It's a must to use Resin Research Quik Kick resin for plugs for less exotherm. You can also put cold icepacks under the fin area while installing to reduce exotherm. In our opinion FCS Fusions are better overall for ease of install and strength.

Can i just use the epoxy/hardener that was shipped to glass on fins or do I need to get something else that will work better for glassed on fins. i know i need the roving stuff but is there anything else?

Yes you can use the same resin for glass on the fins. Nothing special is required.

Glass on fin roving can be purchased HERE

I'm looking for white pigment to add to the fin system so it looks better on the outer rim of the Fcs boxes. What kind of pigment do I use. I've seen resin pigments and then seem tints. Which one is better for the fin boxes with uv cure polyester resin?

White pigment is available HERE, you can use this with any resin but whenever you use UV cure resin you need to add MEKP to colorwork and finboxes to ensure it all cures.

I got some resin inside the screw holes when I was installing the fusion plugs and now I can't back them out. Any suggestions?

Take a small drill (around 1/16" diameter) and carefully drill out the cured resin until a fin key can fit. Then back the screw out, it will pull the rest of the resin out with it. Take your time and make sure not to hit the finbox threads with the drillbit.

I broke an FCS plug. How can I repair it?

Drill the plug out with a holesaw and a template to drill out the remaining parts of the plug and resin. Might need to pull it out with plyers. Fill hole 1/2 way with resin and cab-o-sil. Slide your fin tab into the new plug (do not screw) and drop it into the hole while sliding other tab into existing 2nd plug for alignment. Push the plug down until the tabs touch the glass. The jig will act as a resin dam, fill in the rest of the hole with resin being careful not to overfill and get the screw submerged in resin. When cured remove fin and template, screw down the screw, and sand the plug and resin flush with the board. For additional strength you can laminate a patch of 4 oz. fiberglass over the plug, hotcoat and sand. Good as new.

Do you need separate installation kit for longboard fin boxes or are they the same?

Yes, you need a special install jig for the longboard fin boxes. Here's a link to the jig. 

Same router for all fin systems and longboard fin boxes.

How many fin boxes come in the 9 degree? 0 degree? 3 degree? And 5 degree? in a 1 quantity order ?

All fin boxes are ordered as a single box... so you'll order (2) 9 degree, (2) 5 degree, (2) 3 degree, and (1) 0 degree [center box]


Should I measure in from the rail line (which is different slightly) or should I measure from the stringer and have slighly more foam between the fin box and the rail on one side?

It is always best to measure the fin placement from the rail since the fin works with the rail and not the center of the board. 

Where is the best fin placement?

Please take a look at our fin position layout diagram from tri fins, quads, single fins and 2+1 setups.

FIN POSITION LAYOUT DIAGRAM

Do you have a mix ratio of resin/hardener/additive F/cab o sil for FCS II fin box install that you can share?

Here is our resin usage chart: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0689/1441/files/Resin_Amounts_Per_Board_Length_Chart.pdf?14703194591624972901

 

1/2 oz of epoxy per box (1.5 oz total for  3 FCS II)... no addF or cabosil needed for fin box installs.

Routing the center plug, I wasn't expecting the resistance on the stringer and I pulled the router up. Needless to say this left a gouge about the size of the bit outside the plug outline. Any suggestions for filling in this void/hole around the plug?

Yep. routing's scary until you get used to it. Just go slow and stay strong on the router next time...


You can install the box and fill the hole with extra resin, put some of that foam dust on the floor in the hole (after installing the box). It'll take up some space and require less resin.. 


If you want to cover the mistake you can paint the foam a dark color in the fin area before laminating.

I'm a beginner. Futures fin boxes look difficult and expensive to install. Do I really need the install kit?

Futures finboxes are the hardest to install and do require the router jig to get it right. We recommend FCS X-2 Plugs to start. All that is required is a holesaw bit and a drill to install them. We also have jigs to make sure the plug spacing is correct.

I drilled the holes for the FCS plugs after shaping and sanding but before glassing ...apparently i was supposed to drill the holes after the board was glassed and hot coated.

You can still sand the plugs down and glass over them. It's more difficult but certainly can be done. 


I recommend glassing a small later of glass over the holes first and re-drilling or cutting the fiberglass with a razor blade. This will protect the foam when sanding the plugs flat.


Put a piece a masking tape over the slot and screw holes before laminating. 


After the hotcoat has cured you'll have to cut through the resin and remove the tape.


I have a 10.5" centerfin box. I'm guessing the center tab gets removed so a fin can slide into the box?