HOW TO PAINT AND DO ARTWORK ON A SURFBOARD

1. I have done color work on my boards before with PE resin, can color swirls and stuff be done with epoxy?

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2. What kind of paint can I use to paint my board?

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3. Can I paint over the stringer?

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4. I think I want to get setup to start spraying. So do you need to thin acrylic if so with what? And do you have a recommendation for a spray gun?

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5. I had a question of painting over epoxy. I read a bit of the resin research docs and saw that I can use acrylic paint then just hotcoat over it. Will the acrylic adhere or be compatible to the epoxy if I hotcoat or even use between lam coats?

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6. Can stickers be put under the glass like a logo or would they melt and bubble when the resin kicks?

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7. i know that all boards will age and yellow over time; but, with spray painting or airbrushing will those fade over time?

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8. If i try to spray paint a blank rather than airbrush it (until i save up enough cash to purchase a compressor and air gun) what would the negatives be?

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9. When do I paint the board?

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10. What's the difference between airbrush and hvlp? Do they both use air compressors or is there more that's needed?

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11. If i'm airbrushing, when do i pull the tape on the stringer, will waiting too long cause the paint to peel?

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12. When you say "paint the blank" you mean airbrush it before glassing it?

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13. We are glassing board with red tint in the resin. We were going to put a logo on the deck and one more layer of fiberglass with clear resin this time. We wanted to paint the rails blue also. Should we paint before we put that last layer on?

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14. I'm interested in an aqua blue resin tint seeing if you have it or can get it. The color that may be closer is Turquoise, Im looking for a water color mix between the aqua and turquoise,

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15. Can one get away by mixing very little pigment to end up with a tint effect?

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16. So I screwed up the artwork on the foam under the fiberglass and was wondering if it would be okay to spray paint over the fiberglass before the hotcoat and then hotcoat over the spray paint.

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17. I would like to paint the rails on a new board. Freshly glassed but no hot coat yet. I am set up with a HVLP gun. Here are the questions, 1) What type of paint to use? 2) Do you need a primer before painting?

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18. I used poster paint under poly, and it cracked everywhere when I put resin over it. Is it because I brushed instead of spraying? The paint I used was from foam ez called tempura poster paint (maybe that's why lol)

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19. I stirred pigment into my resin and it looked nice and purple in my cup but when I poured it out onto the board and it ended up being a blue color.

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20. I have a quick question about adding graphics to a board. I just picked up a used board and was looking to do an image transfer on the bottom. Would rice paper work for this if I put a thin layer of epoxy over it?

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21. Can I posca pen some artwork after sanding the hot coat and then gloss coat for the finish? Also if I do a large area witht he posca will it show pen marks and if so should I use a different way of applying it?

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22. Spackling EPS... i'm just wondering if the spackle affects the tint adhesion (i.e., not a uniform colour as it stains the foam and spackle)... Your thoughts?

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23. How do you do a fabric inlay?

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24. how to print and then laminate my logo, I want to do it on rice paper.

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25. Can I use Posca Pens on the shaped blank before laminating or if I should use it after?

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26. When fiberglassing the carbon fiber stringer onto a SUP will artwork on the board show through like clear fiberglass?

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27. I had a friend to do some artwork on a foam PU blank with oil based paints. What are your thoughts on glassing over it without destroying the artwork?

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28. I want to do a red resin panel on a green pigmented bottom. How does that work?

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29. Would I be possible to buy large sheets or rice paper? I have a large format printer and would love to crank out a few large images.

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30. How do I get resin tint an entire board the same color? And how much pigment do I use in the resin?

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31. How much pigment or tint color do I add to the resin?

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32. I have not yet done my hot coat and want to do a yellow deck, framed with the teal rails (after-thought). I've read through your instructions on the website about art work before or after hot coat. I'm still not sure about my situation.

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33. Can I use a Sharpie Marker on the logo rice paper?

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34. If I was doing a resin swirl with RR Epoxy Resin, would I want to heat it up a little bit to allow it to flow around a little more?

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35. Can I paint on the final lamination and then hot coat?

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36. What is the difference between resin tint and pigment?

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37. I painted the foam blank with a water based acrylic paint, and now I'm ready to start the glassing process. Do I need to seal the board or spray it with anything before I glass it? I don't want the resin to damage the artwork.

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38. Can I paint over the hotcoat?

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39. What sort of pigment colors are compatible with the Resin Research epoxy?

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40. Type of paint to use for airbrushing on PU and EPS Blanks

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41. How do I make my logo show on a pigmented resin board?

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42. When do you put on logo paper when your laminating with a resin tint or pigment?

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43. How to mix pigment colors to get a custom color

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44. when you laminate logo paper onto the board, do you typically put the printed side down or face up so it doesn't bleed?

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45. I already hotcoated the board. Can I put a logo over it with a layer of 1.5 oz fiberglass to protect it?

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46. How to print my logo on the rice paper?

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47. When do I paint the board?

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48. How to do a colored foam stain on EPS foam

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49. With the posca paint should I use them right before the hot coat, and is it necessary to do more than one hot coat?

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50. How do I print a logo on your rice paper that has white lettering, and I want to put it on a darker blue background.

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51. I need a little help with Airbrush, what is the best type of paint to use directly on the foam (PU and EPS)?

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52. Have you guys ever made a larger image by connecting two logo sheets before glassing?

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53. What is an acid splash?

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1. I have done color work on my boards before with PE resin, can color swirls and stuff be done with epoxy?

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Yes, resin tints and swirls can be done with epoxy. Just make sure you use resin pigments that are compatible with epoxy (all our pigments are designed for use with both epoxy and poly)

2. What kind of paint can I use to paint my board?

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Spray paint is fine for Polyurethane blanks, but not EPS foam as the solvents in rattle can spray paint will melt EPS. You can always use a HVLP gun, a brush or roller, and acrylic paints.

For painting PU blanks a with rattle can we suggest several light coats of spraypaint, allowing each coat to dry for about 10 minutes before applying the next coat.

Let the paint totally cure for a day before fiberglassing or it may run and smear with the resin.

3. Can I paint over the stringer?

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Sure, you can paint over the stringer but in our opinion it looks kooky (unless it's a stringerless blank) Most guys put a strip of masking tape over the stringer before painting then peel the tape shortly after applying the paint to the blank.

4. I think I want to get setup to start spraying. So do you need to thin acrylic if so with what? And do you have a recommendation for a spray gun?

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Yes thin the acrylic with bottled water and strain the paint to get any clumps out. That way you get a nice even layer of paint and no clogs in the gun. 


Best practice is to spray real light coats and wait about 10 minutes between coats to dry so the paint doesn't build up and run.


Any spray gun will work, but remember you get what you pay for so guns in the $25-$35 range are good enough for low volume  surfboard builders.

5. I had a question of painting over epoxy. I read a bit of the resin research docs and saw that I can use acrylic paint then just hotcoat over it. Will the acrylic adhere or be compatible to the epoxy if I hotcoat or even use between lam coats?

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We have done a ton of paint jobs on board then glassed them with epoxy. We suggest painting directly on the foam and glassing over as the results are better than painting the hotcoat. 

The issue with painting the hotcoat then laying another epoxy hotcoat / gloss coat over is the epoxy tends to fisheye and/or separate over the paint.

It can be done successfully though, simply scuff the paint with 150 grit then hotcoat over it. The scuffing will give the paint some "teeth" and grip the epoxy keeping it from separating.

But, to be safe it's much easier to just paint with acrylic directly to the foam then do a clear lamination over it...

6. Can stickers be put under the glass like a logo or would they melt and bubble when the resin kicks?

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It is not recommended to use stickers as logos, they will delaminate quickly. You can print any graphic on our ink jet logo paper.

Using logo paper is the industry standard and allows the resin to soak through the paper to bond the fiberglass to the foam.

7. i know that all boards will age and yellow over time; but, with spray painting or airbrushing will those fade over time?

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It depends on the pigment content of the paint, more pigment content the longer and brighter the color will stay.

8. If i try to spray paint a blank rather than airbrush it (until i save up enough cash to purchase a compressor and air gun) what would the negatives be?

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Spray paint is fine for Polyurethane blanks, but not EPS foam as the solvents in rattle can spray paint will melt EPS. You can always use a HVLP gun, a brush or roller, and acrylic paints.

For painting PU blanks a with rattle can we suggest several light coats of spraypaint, allowing each coat to dry for about 10 minutes before applying the next coat.

Let the paint totally cure for a day before fiberglassing or it may run and smear with the resin.

9. When do I paint the board?

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You can paint directly on the foam of the shaped blank before glassing with acrylic paints or use POSCA pens to do artwork on the sanded hotcoat and seal with Krylon Acrylic Clear Coat Spray.


Do not use spray paints on EPS foam as the solvents in rattle can spray paint will melt EPS. You can always use a HVLP gun, a brush or roller, and acrylic paints.


For painting PU blanks a with rattle can we suggest several light coats of spraypaint, allowing each coat to dry for about 10 minutes before applying the next coat.


Let the paint totally cure for a day before fiberglassing or it may run and smear with the resin.

10. What's the difference between airbrush and hvlp? Do they both use air compressors or is there more that's needed?

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Airbrushing is for controlled, fine line artwork whereas the HVLP is high volume low pressure with a larger gun designed to paint larger areas quickly.

Airbrush kits normally come with a compressor about 1/16 HP...

If using a HVLP gun choose a compressor that has a larger tank, more than 2 gallons... A large air tank will allow continuous operation of the HVLP gun to lay own paint without losing air midway through your board painting.

11. If i'm airbrushing, when do i pull the tape on the stringer, will waiting too long cause the paint to peel?

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Doesn't matter with airbrushing because the paint is applied in a thin layer. You can pull the tape anytime.

12. When you say "paint the blank" you mean airbrush it before glassing it?

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Yes, after shaping the board you can paint the blank then glass it.

Spray paint is fine for Polyurethane blanks, but not EPS foam as the solvents in rattle can spray paint will melt EPS. You can always use a HVLP gun, a brush or roller, and acrylic paints.

For painting PU blanks a with rattle can we suggest several light coats of spraypaint, allowing each coat to dry for about 10 minutes before applying the next coat.

Let the paint totally cure for a day before fiberglassing or it may run and smear with the resin.


13. We are glassing board with red tint in the resin. We were going to put a logo on the deck and one more layer of fiberglass with clear resin this time. We wanted to paint the rails blue also. Should we paint before we put that last layer on?

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You can paint the fiberglass now then clear lam over it. Let the paint dry for a day before lamming.

Now... painting directly on fiberglass presents a potential problem. The weave will wick paint and cause bleed... you can hide it with a pinline. 

OR for a clean paint job baste the rails with resin, let cure, sand and paint, lam over it.

We would have painted the entire board first then clear lammed it... easiest way.

Other way to do it like the chinese is to spray automotive paint on the hotcoat then automotive clearcoat over that. We don't deal in that stuff so I have no good info on that method.

14. I'm interested in an aqua blue resin tint seeing if you have it or can get it. The color that may be closer is Turquoise, Im looking for a water color mix between the aqua and turquoise,

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It is best to mix your own colors to get exactly what you want. I recommend for something between Aqua and Turquois mixing Teal pigment as your base color and adding dashes of blue pigment andwhite pigment to get the color exactly how you want it.

It is a good idea to test your color before putting it on the board as the color will look much darker in the mixing bucket than on the surfboard. Start by mixing your colors into the resin and spreading it on some scrap foam or white paper to see how the color will look. When you are satisfied then add the catalyst (polyester resin) or hardener (epoxy resin) and laminate your board.

If you are doing both the bottom and deck the same color, you should mix a "master batch" of colored resin and divide it into 2 mixing buckets. Cover one bucket and put it aside for the deck lamination later. When you're ready to glass the deck just add the catalyst or hardener and you'll have the same exact color! It's much easier than trying to color match a new mix.

15. Can one get away by mixing very little pigment to end up with a tint effect?

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Yes, you can just add a drop of pigment to get a tinted effect. The more pigment you add the more opaque it becomes..

16. So I screwed up the artwork on the foam under the fiberglass and was wondering if it would be okay to spray paint over the fiberglass before the hotcoat and then hotcoat over the spray paint.

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Bummer on the artwork. Sorry to hear it didn't turn out the way you wanted.

It's not optimal to paint on the hotcoat but it can be done. It'll cause more complication in the board build but you can definitely go for it if the correct color is important to you.We suggest hotcoating and sanding the board, then spray painting with acrylic. 

When the spray is dry go over the board with a clear coat spray like Krylon Cleat Gloss (or Matte) to keep the paint from chipping off. It will eventually chip off though from daily use of the board.

It's best to paint the board with multiple light layers of paint so it doesn't build up.

17. I would like to paint the rails on a new board. Freshly glassed but no hot coat yet. I am set up with a HVLP gun. Here are the questions, 1) What type of paint to use? 2) Do you need a primer before painting?

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You'll want to use acrylic resin, thinned with a little bottled water, just enough to let the paint flow like water. If you want you can strain the paint so no clumps clog the HVLP gun. Spray light coats and let it sit for about 10 minutes before applying another coat. Repeat until yoo get the desired coverage.


No need to prime...


Let the paint cure for a day before glossing. Also, LIGHTY sand the paint with 220 grit or so to help resin adhesion to the paint. Just scratch it up a little.

18. I used poster paint under poly, and it cracked everywhere when I put resin over it. Is it because I brushed instead of spraying? The paint I used was from foam ez called tempura poster paint (maybe that's why lol)

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Yeah, it's too thick and that's why the resin is pitted... when painting a board only use Acrylic (Tempra is no good) and it's best to spray light coats but brushing can work too, just keep it thin.


Another thing in the future is to screen the board down to close all the holes in the foam for a nice surface... 


An option for colorwork other than paint is to do a "foam stain" with pigmented resin. Just squeegee it on the foam and let cure. Then you can do a clear glass job over it. Looks like paint but different application.

19. I stirred pigment into my resin and it looked nice and purple in my cup but when I poured it out onto the board and it ended up being a blue color.

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It's always good practice to test the pigmented resin on a piece of scrap foam or white paper to see how it'll look on the board. In the bucket the resin looks much darker because you're looking though a deep layer of color. 

The trick is to keep adding color and testing it on white until you achieve the tone you're looking for. Then mix in the hardener and laminate.

20. I have a quick question about adding graphics to a board. I just picked up a used board and was looking to do an image transfer on the bottom. Would rice paper work for this if I put a thin layer of epoxy over it?

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 Our rice paper is for printing images or logos on, however we suggest glassing over the logo.   If you just paint epoxy over it when you sand the area you will most likely sand through the epoxy and hit the logo which is why were glass over our logos.  

21. Can I posca pen some artwork after sanding the hot coat and then gloss coat for the finish? Also if I do a large area witht he posca will it show pen marks and if so should I use a different way of applying it?

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Yes, sand the hotcoat to 150 grit and do your Posca artwork on it. Let it dry for a day before you gloss coat it. You should also VERY lightly sand the artwork with 220 grit to help the gloss resin stick better and not delaminate over time.

The Posca pens will show streaks of paint since it comes out of a felt tip... the paint does remain wet for a few seconds and you might be able to blend it with a paper towel. I recommend experimenting with it. You can always sand the paint off and try again.

22. Spackling EPS... i'm just wondering if the spackle affects the tint adhesion (i.e., not a uniform colour as it stains the foam and spackle)... Your thoughts?

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It's advised to spackle for a painted / tinted board. The spackle fills any bead tear outs and leaves you with a bright white "canvas" to paint on. It is especially important to spackle for a tint. If you don't have a smooth, even surface then the color gets spotty and looks like a bird's egg. 


Another trick is to finish shape the board with sanding screen to close up the gaps between the beads then spackle. Turns out looking exactly like a PU blank.


We use Red Devil "One Time" lightweight spackle and mix it with bottled or distilled water to a whipped cream consistency. The minerals in regular tap water will turn the spackle yellowish and screw up your color.


23. How do you do a fabric inlay?

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Fabric inlays are pretty simple actually. It is best to use silk or cotton fabric. 


Tape off the inlay area as if you were doing a cut lap (because you are doing a cut lap actually)


Lightly spray 3M Super 77 spray adhesive on the blank and ROLL out the fabric, making sure to get rid of any wrinkles along the way. You can iron the fabric first if you want...


Laminate and let the resin soak through the fabric.


When the resin is tacky but not fully cured run a razor blade along the tape line and pull the excess off. Depending on the cloth it might be hard to see the tape so you can make a template first and scribe the line on the fabric before cut lapping.


You can push the edges of the fabric slightly into the foam with a popsicle stick to get it flush so no air bubbles will happen at the seam as you laminate the fiberglass over it.


Not difficult at all.

24. how to print and then laminate my logo, I want to do it on rice paper.

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PRINTING LOGO LAMINATES

If you would like to put some logos under your laminate, you can design them on your computer and print them out using Greenlight’s Logo Printer Paper.  Once you have designed your logo, set your ink-jet printer to print on medium resolution. You need to tape the Logo Printer Paper to a regular sheet of paper, and manually feed this paper into your printer. Make sure the logo paper is facing the proper direction to receive the ink jet ink.

Once the logos are printed, remove the logo paper from the backing paper and cut the artwork/logo out leaving a small margin around the design. You should print as many logos as you can on each piece of logo paper, since you can only send it through the printer once. 

LOGO PLACEMENT

If you have printed out any logos or artwork that you’d like to place under the fiberglass, this should be done right before you are ready to laminate. To do this, carefully roll up all of your fiberglass layers to a point just beyond where you want to place your artwork. Try not to shift the placement of the fiberglass as you roll it up, as you will eventually be rolling it back down, and you want it in the same place. If the artwork is closer to the tail, roll up the glass from the tail. Vice-versa if the artwork is closer to the nose. You will be basting the logo to the foam with a thin layer of epoxy once your resin is mixed and ready to be spread on the fiberglass.

25. Can I use Posca Pens on the shaped blank before laminating or if I should use it after?

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You can use the Posca pens directly on the foam and laminate over them.

26. When fiberglassing the carbon fiber stringer onto a SUP will artwork on the board show through like clear fiberglass?

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Carbon fiber is black and is laminated to the bottom surface of the foam so it will interfere with artwork on the bottom.

27. I had a friend to do some artwork on a foam PU blank with oil based paints. What are your thoughts on glassing over it without destroying the artwork?

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Unfortunately there is a good chance the resin won't bond to the oil paint. If it's a wall hanger cool. But if meant to be surfed it'll delaminate pretty quickly.


Glassing over it shouldn't be a problem though. I'd let it dry for a few days first to make sure it's set and will not smear with resin.

28. I want to do a red resin panel on a green pigmented bottom. How does that work?

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For the red "resin panel", simply laminate the bottom with green pigmented resin and after it cures tape off the square and brush on a pigmented red layer of resin in the tape square. When the resin is tacky pull the tape and let it cure. 

29. Would I be possible to buy large sheets or rice paper? I have a large format printer and would love to crank out a few large images.

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We can cut you any length you'd like. Our rice paper is only 15" wide though. If that works for you let us know how long you want and we'll send it out to you.

30. How do I get resin tint an entire board the same color? And how much pigment do I use in the resin?

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It is a good idea to test your color before putting it on the board as the color will look much darker in the mixing bucket than on the surfboard. Start by mixing your colors into the resin and spreading it on some scrap foam or white paper to see how the color will look. When you are satisfied then add the catalyst (polyester resin) or hardener (epoxy resin) and laminate your board.


If you are doing both the bottom and deck the same color, you should mix a "master batch" of colored resin and divide it into 2 mixing buckets. Cover one bucket and put it aside for the deck lamination later. When you're ready to glass the deck just add the catalyst or hardener and you'll have the same exact color! It's much easier than trying to color match a new mix.

31. How much pigment or tint color do I add to the resin?

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There is no specific measurement of resin tint or pigment. It depends on the depth of color you want. A good place to start is to mix in about 2% color to resin ratio (by weight) and work from there. The maximum amount of tint or pigment is 5%. Adding too much color will get the the way of the resin curing and make it softer.


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It is a good idea to test your color before putting it on the board as the color will look much darker in the mixing bucket than on the surfboard. Start by mixing your colors into the resin and spreading it on some scrap foam or white paper to see how the color will look. Keep adding a little at a time. When you are satisfied then add the catalyst (polyester resin) or hardener (epoxy resin) and laminate your board.

32. I have not yet done my hot coat and want to do a yellow deck, framed with the teal rails (after-thought). I've read through your instructions on the website about art work before or after hot coat. I'm still not sure about my situation.

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You can hotcoat, sand to 200 grit, then paint the deck - do multiple layers of light coats of paint to keep it even. 


Then scratch up the paint with 220 grit rail lightly to help the gloss coat resin bond. Gloss.


Sand the gloss starting at 320 or 400 grit to make sure you don't sand through to the paint.

Another option instead of paint is to do a "resin panel" on the deck. Tape off the area you want to color and mix opaque pigment into the resin, then brush on like a hotcoat. No need to add AdditiveF for this step. 

About an hour or so later pull the tape. When the resin is cured lightly sand the resin lip where the tape was to knock it down.

You can pinline the perimeter of the color if you wish.


Proceed to hotcoat the board with clear resin and sand.


33. Can I use a Sharpie Marker on the logo rice paper?

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Shapie will bleed on rice paper. Better to use Posca paint pens or print on an inkjet printer

34. If I was doing a resin swirl with RR Epoxy Resin, would I want to heat it up a little bit to allow it to flow around a little more?

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No need to heat up the resin for a swirl, you certainly can if you want to though... when laying down the color just know the colors that hit the foam first will stay and the rest will wipe away and tint the surrounding area.

35. Can I paint on the final lamination and then hot coat?

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No, it is not a good idea to paint the fiberglass because the paint will pool up in the weave and not allow the resin to bond to the glass. Your hotcoat will crack and fall off with paint stuck to it.


It's always best to paint directly on the foam but also OK to paint the hotcoat and apply a thin glosscoat over it to protect the paint. Make sure to lightly scratch up the paint with 220 grit sandpaper for better glosscoat adhesion.

36. What is the difference between resin tint and pigment?

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Resin tints are translucent and you can see the stringer through the color.

Resin pigments are opaque and you can't see through them to the stringer or foam.

37. I painted the foam blank with a water based acrylic paint, and now I'm ready to start the glassing process. Do I need to seal the board or spray it with anything before I glass it? I don't want the resin to damage the artwork.

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No need to seal the board. You can glass right over the paint with no issues. Let the paint dry for at least a day so it doesn't smear when laminating.

38. Can I paint over the hotcoat?

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Yes you can paint on top of the hotcoat and gloss coat over it but it is always best to paint directly on to the foam. Paint on the hotcoat can cause pinholes and separations in the gloss coat.


To help prevent issues paint the hotcoat with several light coats as to not build up too much paint. Then lightly sand the paint with 220 grit to scuff it up for a better gloss coat bond. 


Lay down a gloss coat and be careful not to sand through that and hit the paint. Use 320-400 grit to sand that gloss. You can also compound and polish the gloss to make it shine.

39. What sort of pigment colors are compatible with the Resin Research epoxy?

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All the pigments we sell are compatible with both epoxy and polyester resins. Check out or MAFIA pigments and Greenlight colors

40. Type of paint to use for airbrushing on PU and EPS Blanks

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Use Acrylic paints for airbrushing on both EPS and PU blanks. No other paints work as well as Acrylic. Thin the paint with water to flow though a HVLP spray gun.


The trick to good color is to spray multiple light coats. Spray one light coat of paint and let dry for about 10 minutes, then do another coat. Normally 2-5 coats of paint depending on how it looks.


Sealing EPS is good if you are painting. It gives an even surface to paint and makes the board a little stronger. No delamination issues with or without sealing.


Always let the paint dry for a day before laminating over it to prevent smearing, especially with polyester resin. No need to seal over the paint. If you have smearing issues you can seal the paint with a clear acrylic spray before laminating but try letting the paint dry for a day first...

41. How do I make my logo show on a pigmented resin board?

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After your pigmented lamination is cured you can put another logo on top and patch with a layer of glass. That is the common practice for putting logos on dark pigmented boards. 


Cut your fiberglass patch about 2" bigger than your logo and after the resin has cured fair in the the edges of the glass before you hotcoat. This will help you not burn through when sanding. 


Same technique as installing fin boxes after a dark pigmented lamination...

42. When do you put on logo paper when your laminating with a resin tint or pigment?

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Normally we do a tint or pigmented lamination without the logo and after it cures we'll laminate the logo over it and cap the logo (+ about 1" around) with clear 1.5 oz fiberglass, then hotcoat. You can also use clear 4 oz glass to cap the logo but you have to sand the edges down (like a lap) before hotcoating. 

Another tip for logos over dark colors is to spraypaint the back of the logo paper white (or any light color) to make the logo look really good and pronounced on the board.

43. How to mix pigment colors to get a custom color

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It really doesn't matter how you mix the color, whether the pigment is mixed together before adding to the resin or adding each color to the resin independently... it comes out the same. BUT, I prefer to put base color (red) in the resin first, then add a dash of white, mix and test the color on a piece of scrap foam or white paper as that will show you exactly how it will look on the surfboard. When you get the color you want then add the hardener and laminate.


Usually you'll find you'll need to add more red or white to get the hue you're thinking of. So it's easier to add to the resin and test again, and again. Keep sneaking up on the color...


Another tip I'll give you is to add a tiny bit of black pigment to darken up the pink - you can do that with any color to make a deeper shade. Same thing. Just keep sneaking up on the color you desire.


If you are doing the board all the same color (deck and bottom). Make a "Master Batch" of colored resin and put a bit more than 1/2 of it aside (covered) so you can use it for the deck and be the same exact color... (except for the 2 layers of fiberglass cloth on the deck will make it look darker as it holds more resin - pinline the deck lap and bottom lap to trick the eye into looking all the same color)


44. when you laminate logo paper onto the board, do you typically put the printed side down or face up so it doesn't bleed?

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You can laminate the logo paper print side up. It doesn't matter really. The key to no bleed is to print it on normal quality (not best quality) so there is no extra ink sitting on top of the paper...


If you are to laminate the logo over the color you should first sand the hotcoat away from the logo area so the 2 oz glass bonds well to the lamination. 


Spread some resin on the board and place the logo over it with more resin over top and squeegee out all the air bubbles. Then you can lay the 2 oz cloth over and laminate it. Then hotcoat that area. 


Normally a logo patch over color is done before hotcoating but you just have a little extra work sanding and re-hotcoating. 

45. I already hotcoated the board. Can I put a logo over it with a layer of 1.5 oz fiberglass to protect it?

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If you are to laminate the logo over the color you should first sand the hotcoat away from the logo area so the 1.5 oz glass bonds well to the lamination. 


Spread some resin on the board and place the logo over it with more resin over top and squeegee out all the air bubbles. Then you can lay the 1.5 oz cloth over and laminate it. Then hotcoat that area. 


Normally a logo patch over color is done before hotcoating but you just have a little extra work sanding and re-hotcoating. 

46. How to print my logo on the rice paper?

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Tape the leading edge of the logo paper to regular printer paper to send it through.

Set your print quality to "Normal" (not Best) as too much ink on the paper may bleed when laminating with resin.

47. When do I paint the board?

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Paint directly on the foam with acrylic paints only with a HVLP spray gun or brush the paint on. The aerosol in rattle can spray paint will melt the foam. 


For EPS foam it is best to seal the blank first with lightweight spackle before painting for a clean, even surface. 

48. How to do a colored foam stain on EPS foam

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Foam stains are great on EPS. There a two ways you can do them:


1. Spackle the blank and add pigment to resin and squeegee on the blank, let it cure and laminate the glass on.


2. Skip the spackle and mix Q-cell with the resin and pigment to a thin pasts and squeegee onto the foam. This will seal the blank at the same time as staining the foam. The white Q-cell will make the color a little lighter so add a bit more pigment to the resin and Q-cell mix. 


It's a good idea to always test the color on a piece of scrap foam or white paper to see exactly how it will look on the board before mixing in the hardener. Colors are much darker in the mixing bucket than on the board. 

49. With the posca paint should I use them right before the hot coat, and is it necessary to do more than one hot coat?

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Normally posca paint pens are used on the sanded hotcoat and protected by another hotcoat (glosscoat) or with a few layers of Krylon clear spray acrylic. The posca pens can also be used to do artwork directly on the foam. It is not recommended to paint the fiberglass lamination because it will bleed with the texture of the fiberglass.

50. How do I print a logo on your rice paper that has white lettering, and I want to put it on a darker blue background.

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Here's the trick to getting a great white (or any color) on the rice paper:

Print your graphic on one side of the logo paper and spray acrylic paint (white in this case) on the back side of the paper. Makes logos pop on dark boards.

You'll also want to apply the logo paper on top of your laminations and put a layer of 4 oz cloth over it to protect the logo. The 4 oz "cap" only needs to be about 1" larger than your logo paper cutout. Lightly sand the edges of the cap to get them close to the fiberglass below, then hotcoat the board.

51. I need a little help with Airbrush, what is the best type of paint to use directly on the foam (PU and EPS)?

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Use acrylic paint thinned with water. Spray 4-5 very light coats about 10 minutes apart and it will be the quickest drying, best looking paint job on both EPS and PU. If painting EPS seal it first with spackle or a q-cell/epoxy mixture to make it a smooth surface.

52. Have you guys ever made a larger image by connecting two logo sheets before glassing?

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Yeah but it's difficult. The logos tend to move a little when squeegeeing over. Best to lay the logos down with resin and let it cure, then glass over. 

53. What is an acid splash?

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An acid splash is just another name for a resin swirl.  Resin with two or more resin pigments or tints are randomly "swirled" together during the laminating process to create an abstract look on the board.

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