HOW TO INSTALL SURFBOARD FIN BOXES

1. I would like to get the Black Label Side bites with FCS base so which fin plugs or boxes should I use?

Open tab

2. I have FCS X-2 plugs, how are they installed?

Open tab

3. Are the dummy fins in the futures one pass install kit supposed to be canted out 6.5 degrees according to the angle finder?

Open tab

4. How much resin and catalyst do you use for installing FCS X-2 fin plugs?

Open tab

5. When do you glass on the fins and how do you do it?

Open tab

6. Where should I put my fins? How far from the tail and in from the rail?

Open tab

7. I installed regular fcs plugs on a board and somehow got a small leak that cause a major delam. What is the pro install fcs X-2 plugs on an epoxy board.

Open tab

8. Can i just use the epoxy/hardener that was shipped to glass on fins or do I need to get something else that will work better for glassed on fins. i know i need the roving stuff but is there anything else?

Open tab

9. I'm looking for white pigment to add to the fin system so it looks better on the outer rim of the Fcs boxes. What kind of pigment do I use. I've seen resin pigments and then seem tints. Which one is better for the fin boxes with uv cure polyester resin?

Open tab

10. I got some resin inside the screw holes when I was installing the fusion plugs and now I can't back them out. Any suggestions?

Open tab

11. I broke an FCS plug. How can I repair it?

Open tab

12. Do you need separate installation kit for longboard fin boxes or are they the same?

Open tab

13.How many fin boxes come in the 9 degree? 0 degree? 3 degree? And 5 degree? in a 1 quantity order ?

Open tab

14. Should I measure in from the rail line (which is different slightly) or should I measure from the stringer and have slighly more foam between the fin box and the rail on one side?

Open tab

15. Where is the best fin placement?

Open tab

16. Do you have a mix ratio of resin/hardener/additive F/cab o sil for FCS II fin box install that you can share?

Open tab

17. Routing the center plug, I wasn't expecting the resistance on the stringer and I pulled the router up. Needless to say this left a gouge about the size of the bit outside the plug outline. Any suggestions for filling in this void/hole around the plug?

Open tab

18. I'm a beginner. Futures fin boxes look difficult and expensive to install. Do I really need the install kit?

Open tab

19. I drilled the holes for the FCS plugs after shaping and sanding but before glassing ...apparently i was supposed to drill the holes after the board was glassed and hot coated.

Open tab

20. I have a 10.5" centerfin box. I'm guessing the center tab gets removed so a fin can slide into the box?

Open tab

21. I bought the resin research 2000 epoxy from you guys. Can I use them to set in fcs x-2 plugs or do I need quick kick stuff?

Open tab

22. I wan to make fins .Do you know how make layers of fiberglass cloth are required to get the right thickness so the base will be thick enough to go into a normal fin single fin base? Also how much resin?

Open tab

23. PU and EPS boards both get hot in the sun. Why do EPS boards *need* vents? More air volume? resin bonding to substrate in a EPS/Epoxy combo not as robust as with PU/PE or PU/Epoxy?

Open tab

24. Do these vented leash plugs need to be replaced as a maintenance item like Goretx? e.g. replace the vented leash plug every 5 years

Open tab

25. How do I position the center fin box from the tail? How many inches from the tail to the center of the box?

Open tab

26. Hello I did buy some of your products and I am trying to reshape and old surf board but I dont want to remove my FCS fins, how should I glass it without taking the fins out?

Open tab

27. First time doing fin plugs. For fcs fusion and using epoxy quik do I need to add anything to the mixture like cab o sil or is the quik epoxy ok ?

Open tab

28. Will the futures one pass kit work with the Bosch trim router?

Open tab

29. whats the fcs type thats the first one ever made, not the click in one?

Open tab

30. The EPS foam melted when installing FCS X-2. What did I do wrong?

Open tab

31. How to install Futures fin boxes

Open tab

32. I'm shaping a 7'6 funboard and I'm planning to make it single fin. Now is the time to order my single fin box and I was wondering if you could help me. Which on is the best for a funboard; 8.5'' of 10.5'' fin box?

Open tab

33. When do you install the 10.5" centerfin box? Before laminating or after the hotcoat?

Open tab

34. What are "football patches" for fin boxes and how do I make them?

Open tab

35. Do I need to buy cabosil for the fin box/leash plug installation? Or can I make due with the less congealed resin/hardener mix?

Open tab

36. I am curious if there is good method to create futures compatible plywood fins

Open tab

37. Twin fin / Keel placement?

Open tab

38. How do I install a 10.5" longboard centerfin box?

Open tab

39. What is the difference between the old style and new style Future fins boxes?

Open tab

40. How do I figure out where to put the fins on my board?

Open tab

41. . What is the difference between futures center boxes and side boxes?

Open tab

42. If I'm using fcs II fin boxes with a five degree can't is it still necessary to can't them at five degrees? Is cab-o-sil required to install the boxes on an eps blank?

Open tab

43. Do the FCS X-2 / FACTORY fin plugs have any built in cant? Or do I need to factor in cant when I install?

Open tab

44. I'm currently on the hotcoat stage of my board moving on to the gloss coat and wondering would it be better to install the fin plugs before or after the gloss coat?

Open tab

45. I am shaping a board with eps and rr 2000 epoxy. Planning on installing fcs x2 plugs but I've read a bit about melting foam. If I use glass inside the hole, make the hole snug and use ice packs should I be fine ? Do you recommend doing a two part pour ?

Open tab

46. I think I set my fin boxes in backwards. The little Allen screw is facing the tail. Should be the other way right ? Any suggestions?

Open tab

47. I laminated my board and I get some air bubbles close to the fins box. When I sanded the air bubbles open up. How can I fix it?

Open tab

48. The epoxy resin is sinking through the futures fins box ILT slots. Is it exotherming and eating foam away?

Open tab

49. Can I install fin boxes at the same time as laminating the bottom of my board?

Open tab

50. FCS II and FCS Fusion router jig alignment with the right and left side of the board

Open tab

51. What is the easiest finbox or fin system to install?

Open tab

52. when setting an fcsII fin box is the flange supposed to be level with the board or is it supposed to sit .5-1mm below?

Open tab

53. I want to put quad fins with a center fin on my wake surf board and when I went to route the center fin the template was not flat on the board because of the double concave I put in

Open tab

1. I would like to get the Black Label Side bites with FCS base so which fin plugs or boxes should I use?

Open tab

The easiest fin box system to install for the side bite would be the Factory fin plugs, or FCS X-2 plugs. You can also buy inexpensive quick set jigs and FCS T-3 Holesaw to install the plugs.

2. I have FCS X-2 plugs, how are they installed?

Open tab
CLICK HERE for the FCS X-2 Fin Plug Install Manual

More detailed install info below:

NOTE: For EPS boards use Resin Research Quick Kick Epoxy to reduce exotherm and prevent melting the foam. See Step 4. 


1. FCS X-2 and FACTORY plugs are installed after the hotcoat. After installation and the resin has cured, you sand them down flush with the board while sanding the bottom.



2. Once you have the quickset jigs laid out on the board (lined up with your shapers dots) you will use a FCS Hole Saw bit to make your holes for the plugs. Drill the hole 5'8" deep and pull the foam out with needle nose plyers or dig out with a flathead screw driver. 


3. We suggest using either FCS dummy jigs or a set of fins to set the plugs with the correct spacing as well as adjust the fin cant angle. Lightly screw the plugs onto the dummy jig tabs. If using fin keep the plugs loose on the fin tabs so you can push them down to where the "nubs" on the plugs touch the hotcoat.


4. Polyester boards: Mix 1 oz of resin per plug. (6 oz total for a tri-fin, 8 oz total for a quad). 

    EPS boards:  Use Resin Research Quick Kick resin.  In temperatures hotter than 80 degrees F, mix 1/2 oz per plug. You will fill the plug hole twice to reduce exotherm and prevent melting the foam. 


5. Polyester Board: Pour about 1/3 oz of mixed resin into the holes. 

    EPS Board: Pour about 1/2 oz mixed resin into the holes.


6. Place the plugs in the holes with the dummy jig or fins to ensure proper alignment. Set the fin cant to the desired angle and hold in place with tape. Here is an illustration of taping the fins in place (these are glass ons but same taping methods apply to FCS fin plugs)



7. Polyester Boards: Using a small cup (dixie cups work great) carefully pour resin around the perimeter of the plug so it runs into the drilled hole. Be careful not to over fill! Fill just under the lip of the plug and jig. 

   EPS Boards: In temps above 80 degrees F, let the first pour cure for about 2 hours then mix another 1/2 oz Quik Kick resin per plug an top off.


Once the resin cures remove the jigs and sand the plugs down until they are flush with the board.  



3. Are the dummy fins in the futures one pass install kit supposed to be canted out 6.5 degrees according to the angle finder?

Open tab

Yes, the front dummy fin cant is 6.5 degrees, the rears and sitebite fins are 4 and 3 degree, respectively.

4. How much resin and catalyst do you use for installing FCS X-2 fin plugs?

Open tab
½ oz per X-2 plug, mix ½ cc MEKP per ½ oz polyester resin: so for a tri fin (6 X-2 plugs) mix 3 oz poly resin and 1.5 cc catalyst
You can download our resin chart HERE which includes info on how much resin to use for finboxes

5. When do you glass on the fins and how do you do it?

Open tab

Glass the fins on after laminating the board and before hotcoating. You'll hotcoat the board and fins all at the same time. Watch this video to learn how to glass on fins.

6. Where should I put my fins? How far from the tail and in from the rail?

Open tab

Check out Greenlight's Fin Position Layout Guide HERE

7. I installed regular fcs plugs on a board and somehow got a small leak that cause a major delam. What is the pro install fcs X-2 plugs on an epoxy board.

Open tab
FCS Fusion fin boxes were invented because of the growing popularity of EPS/Epoxy construction. Not to say you can't use the traditional X-2 plugs but it's a longer process. You need to pour a little epoxy in the hole to set the plugs, then a few hours later you finish off with more resin. A 2 part pour reduces exotherm which melts the EPS causing a weak install. It's a must to use Resin Research Quik Kick resin for plugs for less exotherm. You can also put cold icepacks under the fin area while installing to reduce exotherm. In our opinion FCS Fusions are better overall for ease of install and strength.

8. Can i just use the epoxy/hardener that was shipped to glass on fins or do I need to get something else that will work better for glassed on fins. i know i need the roving stuff but is there anything else?

Open tab

Yes you can use the same resin for glass on the fins. Nothing special is required.

Glass on fin roving can be purchased HERE

9. I'm looking for white pigment to add to the fin system so it looks better on the outer rim of the Fcs boxes. What kind of pigment do I use. I've seen resin pigments and then seem tints. Which one is better for the fin boxes with uv cure polyester resin?

Open tab
White pigment is available HERE, you can use this with any resin but whenever you use UV cure resin you need to add MEKP to colorwork and finboxes to ensure it all cures.

10. I got some resin inside the screw holes when I was installing the fusion plugs and now I can't back them out. Any suggestions?

Open tab
Take a small drill (around 1/16" diameter) and carefully drill out the cured resin until a fin key can fit. Then back the screw out, it will pull the rest of the resin out with it. Take your time and make sure not to hit the finbox threads with the drillbit.

11. I broke an FCS plug. How can I repair it?

Open tab
Drill the plug out with a holesaw and a template to drill out the remaining parts of the plug and resin. Might need to pull it out with plyers. Fill hole 1/2 way with resin and cab-o-sil. Slide your fin tab into the new plug (do not screw) and drop it into the hole while sliding other tab into existing 2nd plug for alignment. Push the plug down until the tabs touch the glass. The jig will act as a resin dam, fill in the rest of the hole with resin being careful not to overfill and get the screw submerged in resin. When cured remove fin and template, screw down the screw, and sand the plug and resin flush with the board. For additional strength you can laminate a patch of 4 oz. fiberglass over the plug, hotcoat and sand. Good as new.

12. Do you need separate installation kit for longboard fin boxes or are they the same?

Open tab
Yes, you need a special install jig for the longboard fin boxes. Here's a link to the jig
Same router for all fin systems and longboard fin boxes.

13.How many fin boxes come in the 9 degree? 0 degree? 3 degree? And 5 degree? in a 1 quantity order ?

Open tab

All fin boxes are ordered as a single box... so you'll order (2) 9 degree, (2) 5 degree, (2) 3 degree, and (1) 0 degree [center box]

14. Should I measure in from the rail line (which is different slightly) or should I measure from the stringer and have slighly more foam between the fin box and the rail on one side?

Open tab

It is always best to measure the fin placement from the rail since the fin works with the rail and not the center of the board.

15. Where is the best fin placement?

Open tab

Please take a look at our fin position layout diagram from tri fins, quads, single fins and 2+1 setups.

Please take a look at our fin position layout diagram from tri fins, quads, single fins and 2+1 setups.

16. Do you have a mix ratio of resin/hardener/additive F/cab o sil for FCS II fin box install that you can share?

Open tab

Use these articles to answer questions that customers have about your products and services. You can use text, links and images and also group articles into categories.

Here is our resin usage chart: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0689/1441/files/Resin_Amounts_Per_Board_Length_Chart.pdf?14703194591624972901

17. Routing the center plug, I wasn't expecting the resistance on the stringer and I pulled the router up. Needless to say this left a gouge about the size of the bit outside the plug outline. Any suggestions for filling in this void/hole around the plug?

Open tab

Yep. routing's scary until you get used to it. Just go slow and stay strong on the router next time...

You can install the box and fill the hole with extra resin, put some of that foam dust on the floor in the hole (after installing the box). It'll take up some space and require less resin.. 

If you want to cover the mistake you can paint the foam a dark color in the fin area before laminating.

18. I'm a beginner. Futures fin boxes look difficult and expensive to install. Do I really need the install kit?

Open tab

Futures finboxes are the hardest to install and do require the router jig to get it right. We recommend FCS X-2 Plugs to start. All that is required is a holesaw bit and a drill to install them. We also have jigs to make sure the plug spacing is correct.

19. I drilled the holes for the FCS plugs after shaping and sanding but before glassing ...apparently i was supposed to drill the holes after the board was glassed and hot coated.

Open tab

You can still sand the plugs down and glass over them. It's more difficult but certainly can be done. 

I recommend glassing a small later of glass over the holes first and re-drilling or cutting the fiberglass with a razor blade. This will protect the foam when sanding the plugs flat.

Put a piece a masking tape over the slot and screw holes before laminating. 


After the hotcoat has cured you'll have to cut through the resin and remove the tape.

20. I have a 10.5" centerfin box. I'm guessing the center tab gets removed so a fin can slide into the box?

Open tab

You are correct the center tab gets removed to get the fin in place. Usually we pop them out during the sanding process with a pair of needle nose pliers. 

The tab is there as a part of the plastic molding process.

21. I bought the resin research 2000 epoxy from you guys. Can I use them to set in fcs x-2 plugs or do I need quick kick stuff?

Open tab

For EPS Blanks, we recommend setting X-2 plugs with 2 separate resin pours so the resin doesn't exotherm and melt the EPS foam. 

Fill the drilled X-2 hole about 1/4 to 1/3rd of the depth with resin (just a little) and set the plugs in. Then when that's cured fill the rest of the hole with another batch of resin.

22. I wan to make fins .Do you know how make layers of fiberglass cloth are required to get the right thickness so the base will be thick enough to go into a normal fin single fin base? Also how much resin?

Open tab

26 layers of 6 ounce in a hand layup works well for FCS and futures boxes, which are 0.25 inches wide on the flange.

36 layers of 6 ounce for the normal single fin center boxes, which have a 0.375 inch width.

It's best to orient your fin template so the fiberglass yarns run from the base to the tip on an angle for the best flex. Having them run straight parallel and perpendicular to the base makes for a floppy fin. So make your fin panel big enough. 

 I think you'll need somewhere around 60 oz of resin to make a 36 layer panel...

23. PU and EPS boards both get hot in the sun. Why do EPS boards *need* vents? More air volume? resin bonding to substrate in a EPS/Epoxy combo not as robust as with PU/PE or PU/Epoxy?

Open tab

If any water gets in the board, EPS foam has air pockets inside that heat up into steam and push on the glass, delaminating it. The vents prevent that.


PU has no air and no steam but delaminates from the foam crushing and breaking away from the glass.

EPS / epoxy construction is 5X stronger than PU with the same glass schedule.

24. Do these vented leash plugs need to be replaced as a maintenance item like Goretx? e.g. replace the vented leash plug every 5 years

Open tab

No maintenance needed. It's good practice to occasionally dump some fresh water in the plug because hypothetically tiny salt pieces can accumulate and clog the vent. But highly unlikely.

25. How do I position the center fin box from the tail? How many inches from the tail to the center of the box?

Open tab

26. Hello I did buy some of your products and I am trying to reshape and old surf board but I dont want to remove my FCS fins, how should I glass it without taking the fins out?

Open tab

You can put masking tape over the FCS plugs when glassing and cut the slots out with a razor blade when the resin is cured. You can also fill the plug slots and screw hole with plummer's putty to make sure no resin gets in there when glassing.

27. First time doing fin plugs. For fcs fusion and using epoxy quik do I need to add anything to the mixture like cab o sil or is the quik epoxy ok ?

Open tab

Straight resin on the plug and routed hole. We pour a the routed hole about 1/4 the depth and brush resin up the sides of the walls.

Then take the rest of the resin from the bottom of the routed hole and paint the bottom and sides of the fusion plug before setting it it. 

Squeegee around any excess resin to prevent bumps in your lamination.

28. Will the futures one pass kit work with the Bosch trim router?

Open tab

No, futures designed the new install kit to only work with theMakita RT0701C router

29. whats the fcs type thats the first one ever made, not the click in one?

Open tab

FCS X-2 plugs were the first system, then came FCS Fusion, then FCS II click in system.

Normal 2-tab fins work with the X-2 plugs and Fusion

30. The EPS foam melted when installing FCS X-2. What did I do wrong?

Open tab

In summertime heat (80 degrees ) the epoxy resin will tend to exotherm in deep holes as in FCS X-2 plug holes and ding repairs. FCS fusion, FCS II, and Futures are a tight fit and use very little resin so no worries there.

We recommend pouring only about a 1/2 ounce of epoxy into a hole at a time then waiting about an hour to fill up the rest of the hole. This will stop the epoxy from exotherming and melting EPS. 

31. How to install Futures fin boxes

Open tab

I am about to begin glassing my board but I’m confused about the fin boxes and i was hoping you guys could help me out. I have the future fin boxes installed in the foam and i understand i have to put resin in the hole i routed out and set the fin boxes. i know before i put on the fiber glass I’m supposed to tape off the opening of the fin box and then begin laminating, but how am i going access the fin box after the hot coat, do i sand the hot coat down until the tapes gets sanded off with it?

Yes, the tape gets sanded off and opens the fin slot. You can see the futures boxes have a raised tab that creates a bump in the lamination. When sanded flush with the board it opens right up.

32. I'm shaping a 7'6 funboard and I'm planning to make it single fin. Now is the time to order my single fin box and I was wondering if you could help me. Which on is the best for a funboard; 8.5'' of 10.5'' fin box?

Open tab

We prefer to install 10.5" centerfin boxes because it gives you an extra 2" to move the fin around, Start with the fin in the middle of the box for your first few surfs then move it back for more drive or forward for more turning depending on how you want to surf the board. Or maybe just keep it in the middle if you're having fun!

33. When do you install the 10.5" centerfin box? Before laminating or after the hotcoat?

Open tab

The centerfin box is installed after the hotcoat, before sanding the board. The lip of the box will be sanded down flush with the bottom of the board during the sanding process. We recommend "grinding" the fin box plastic with 60 or 80 grit and a hard or medium flexpad

Grinding is a bit different than sanding whereas you tilt the sanding pad up a little bit to use just the edge of pad to focus the force right where you need it (on the box plastic). Sanding is done by keeping the pad flat on the board and removing a broader area of hotcoat. 

Grind the finbox plastic down for a few seconds and let it cool for a few seconds as too much friction will actually melt the plastic and the heat can possibly transfer into the foam and weaken the area around the box. So it's best to cycle the grinding a few seconds on, a few seconds off.

Grind the box down as close as you're comfortable with without hitting the hotcoat. Then proceeed to sand the entire board with the flexpad flat and as you pass over the finbox it will sand evenly with the hotcoat.

34. What are "football patches" for fin boxes and how do I make them?

Open tab

Football patches are fiberglass patches shaped like footballs which are used for strengthening pre-glass fin systems, such as FCS Fusion, FCS II, and futures.

They are laminated over the fin boxes at the same time you laminate the bottom of the board. The football patches go on first, then roll your bottom fiberglass over them.

Use 4 oz. scrap fiberglass (you can use 6 oz as well) Cut it out about 1" bigger on all sides than your fin box shape into an oval (or football shape) and lay over the fin box. MAKE SURE YOUR FIN BOXES AND SCREWS ARE TAPED OVER FIRST!!!

Then roll your bottom fiberglass over and saturate with resin. Pull out any excess resin from the fin box area and pop any air bubbles around the fin box holes.

NOTE: if you are doing an opaque pigment bottom lamination, it is best to route and install the fin boxes after the lamination so you can see them. Then the clear fiberglass football patches go over the fin boxes and bond to the lamination - giving the fin boxes more strength. 

35. Do I need to buy cabosil for the fin box/leash plug installation? Or can I make due with the less congealed resin/hardener mix?

Open tab

You do not need to use Cab-O-sil but the resin might drain into the foam and require an additional top-off pour... 

There is no need for Cab-o-sil in FCS fusion, FCS II or futures fin box installs. Only suggested for FCS X-2 and Factory fin plugs as well as leash plugs.

36. I am curious if there is good method to create futures compatible plywood fins

Open tab

For a plywood fin, either finbox compatible or glass-on use 2 layers of 6 oz fiberglass on each side of the plywood fin. Laminate them on an angle so the fiberglass strands run from the base (toward the leading edge) to the tip of the fin. You'll get a better flex pattern than having the fiberglass strands run parallel and perpendicular to the base. Use Resin Research Quik Kick

 To make futures fins I have simple propped up a piece of wood to the desired cant angle (a bit of trigonometry is required) and layed wax paper over it. Wet up 2 layers of glass on the mold, Lay in your wood fin, fill the base with fin roving the width of the wood as well as a piece of roving along the leading edge of the fin, then laminate 2 layers of cloth over that. Over-build everything to trim to shape when cured. Use a carbide jigsaw bit to cut out the fin and base, sand to size and file in the notches for the futures fin. 

Hotcoat and finish sand to fit into the fin box. You'll want the final base width to be 1/4".

37. Twin fin / Keel placement?

Open tab

Fin placement really depends on our average back foot placement when you pop up. You want the fins slightly behind your rear foot for a twin set.

Somewhere around 7" - 7.5" up from the tail is a good place to put the trailing edge of the twin fins. For keels you want them back another inch since they have longer bases so 6" - 6'5" up from the tail.

Twin fins are supposed to be loose so you'll want 5 degree cant and 3/16" toe-in. Keels are more of a down the line fin and need less toe-in and cant. 1/8" Toe-in and 2-3 degree cant is good for them.

38. How do I install a 10.5" longboard centerfin box?

Open tab

39. What is the difference between the old style and new style Future fins boxes?

Open tab

The only difference between the new futures ILT (Interwoven Laminate Technology) and the futures 1st generation boxes are the holes in the flange that allow resin to flow through and provide more bond between glass and foam.

40. How do I figure out where to put the fins on my board?

Open tab

1. Fin placement should be relative to where your back foot is on the board... the side fins position should be right under your foot as a baseline. Do 10 pop ups on a tape measure or yard stick and measure the average distance your back foot lands from zero. This is your "neutral point'. If you want the board to be more drivey down the line position the fins back towards the tail a bit. If you want looser and more turning move them up a bit (this is a pivot point). But you can't go wrong with the typical 11"-12" up from the tail (seems to be where most feet land anyway).

2. Toe-in: More toe-in provides more turning but more drag. For front tri fin or quads a 1/4" toe in (measured by a Versa-Square or G-square) is optimal. Rear quad fins get 1/8" or 3/16" toe-in depending on if you want drive or more turning. Twins get 3/16" toe

3. Cant: Fin cant provides "lift". More cant is looser, less is drivey. This is a big decision when buying or setting the fin boxes. It all depends on how you want to surf and the wave shape you surf. 5 degree front fin cant is fast down the line while 8-9 degree front fin cant is looser and turns easier (pivot point).

Here is the fin position chart in the surfboard building guide, they are good numbers to use but don't be afraid to experiment!

41. . What is the difference between futures center boxes and side boxes?

Open tab

The difference is the depth of the boxes and fin tabs. Side fins are 3/4" deep, center and rear quad fins are 1/2" deep.

42. If I'm using fcs II fin boxes with a five degree can't is it still necessary to can't them at five degrees? Is cab-o-sil required to install the boxes on an eps blank?

Open tab

Set the FCS II boxes in flat, the cant is built in but may have to be adjusted slightly to 5 degrees if there is a concave or Vee in the tail. It doesn't really matter though. 5 degree cant is just a standard number and your board will surf fine if it's not exactly 5 degrees. 

No need to use Cab-O-Sil when installing FCS II, FCS Fusion, or Futures fin boxes. They are a tight fit in the routed pocket and straight resin is all you need.

43. Do the FCS X-2 / FACTORY fin plugs have any built in cant? Or do I need to factor in cant when I install?

Open tab

Rail plugs have 4 degree cant built in but you should set them to the cant you desire when installing. You can use our fin cant templates to help you set the degree. 

44. I'm currently on the hotcoat stage of my board moving on to the gloss coat and wondering would it be better to install the fin plugs before or after the gloss coat?

Open tab

 Install the FCS X-2 or FACTORY plugs after the hotcoat then sand them down as you sand the hotcoat to 150 grit. Then put a piece of masking tape over the plug slots and screw holes so resin doesn't get in when glossing. You can pull the tape a few minutes after glossing using a razor blade or tweezers.

45. I am shaping a board with eps and rr 2000 epoxy. Planning on installing fcs x2 plugs but I've read a bit about melting foam. If I use glass inside the hole, make the hole snug and use ice packs should I be fine ? Do you recommend doing a two part pour ?

Open tab

A two part pour is definitely the way to go. Just put a little resin in the bottom of the holes to set the plug and wait about an hour to fill the rest of the perimeter with resin. Use a dixie cup or something like that to drizzle the resin around the hole.

46. I think I set my fin boxes in backwards. The little Allen screw is facing the tail. Should be the other way right ? Any suggestions?

Open tab

Bummer. Yep, you have to install them with the screws pointing forwards. The fins won't fit in that way.

I suggest razor blading the fiberglass around the boxes and sticking a fin in them. Then rock the fin back and forth to break the box free. You will pull foam out with it so you can either fill the routed holes with Q-cell and resin mix and re-route or stick some fiberglass scraps in the pocket when installing the boxes the correct way to take up the space. 

You'll have to sand the foam off the boxes or get new boxes.

Then cap with a layer of 4 oz cloth before hotcoating.

47. I laminated my board and I get some air bubbles close to the fins box. When I sanded the air bubbles open up. How can I fix it?

Open tab

Air bubbles sometime happen. They are an absence of resin. The next time you laminate over fin boxes wait a few minutes and if you see any air bubbles use the extra resin left in your mixing bucket (or off the floor if you have none left) and dap more resin into the air bubble. It will force the air out and have a clean lamination over the fin box.

To fix these voids simply mix a small batch of resin and drip it into the holes. Fill them up then sand them down flush with the board again. 

Displaying image2.JPG

48. The epoxy resin is sinking through the futures fins box ILT slots. Is it exotherming and eating foam away?

Open tab

There is no exotherm with Quick Kick and the small amount of resin used in a futures box install. It is the resin draining into the foam and acting as an anchor in the EPS making it stringer. I advise not using AddF when installing the fin boxes as that makes the resin thinner and allows it to drain more. 

We also paint the routed pocked and flange with resin as well as the outside surface of the box when installing. Then pour more resin over the flange to fill the ILT box slots and squeegee the excess resin off the flange and onto the foam.

49. Can I install fin boxes at the same time as laminating the bottom of my board?

Open tab

We do not recommend installing fin boxes the same time as laminating the bottom. You can not set the cant of the fin with the dummy cant jigs in that case. It could make your fins misaligned. Better to let the fin boxes cure then tape them off and laminate the bottom.

50. FCS II and FCS Fusion router jig alignment with the right and left side of the board

Open tab

The reason the left and right side fins are slightly offset from center is the fins are flat on the inside (not symmetrical) and the jig automatically offsets the fin placement to line the flat inside surface with your shaper's dots. 

Although that's just standard industry practice to offset the fins like that, no one will ever know if the board surfs better with the fins 1/8" over here or 1/8" over there... it really doesn't matter...

The jig is marked with a "right" and "left" side.

Looking at the bottom of the board, place the "right" side jig line on the dots on the right side of the board. Vicea-versa for the left side. 

Center fin is pf course on the center line.

More info can be found in the FCS II install guide.

51. What is the easiest finbox or fin system to install?

Open tab

For a first timer, the easiest fin system to install is FCS X-2 Plugs or FACTORY Fin Plugs

These plugs only require a normal power drill, X-2 Holesaw bit and quick set jigs

The things that we would suggest to make this an easy install are the FCS dummy install jigs and a g square or versasquare for laying out fin placements. The quick set jigs are an easy one time use product and the g square or versasquare is a tool you will use forever in your board building...

Here's how to install the X-2 plugs and a diagram of standard fin placements:

NOTE: For EPS boards use Resin Research Quick Kick Epoxy to reduce exotherm and prevent melting the foam. See Step 4. 

1. FCS X-2 and FACTORY plugs are installed after the hotcoat. After installation and the resin has cured, you sand them down flush with the board while sanding the bottom.

2. Once you have the quickset jigs laid out on the board (lined up with your shapers dots) you will use a FCS Hole Saw bit to make your holes for the plugs. Drill the hole 5/8" deep and pull the foam out with needle nose plyers or dig out with a flathead screw driver. 

3. We suggest using either FCS dummy jigs or a set of fins to set the plugs with the correct spacing as well as adjust the fin cant angle. Lightly screw the plugs onto the dummy jig tabs. If using fin keep the plugs loose on the fin tabs so you can push them down to where the "nubs" on the plugs touch the hotcoat.

4. Polyester boards: Mix 1 oz of resin per plug. (6 oz total for a tri-fin, 8 oz total for a quad). 

    EPS boards:  Use Resin Research Quick Kick resin.  In temperatures hotter than 80 degrees F, mix 1/2 oz per plug. You will fill the plug hole twice to reduce exotherm and prevent melting the foam. 

5. Polyester Board: Pour about 1/3 oz of mixed resin into the holes. 

    EPS Board: Pour about 1/2 oz mixed resin into the holes.

6. Place the plugs in the holes with the dummy jig or fins to ensure proper alignment. Set the fin cant to the desired angle and hold in place with tape. Here is an illustration of taping the fins in place (these are glass ons but same taping methods apply to FCS fin plugs)

Inline image 1



7. Polyester Boards: Using a small cup (dixie cups work great) carefully pour resin around the perimeter of the plug so it runs into the drilled hole. Be careful not to over fill! Fill just under the lip of the plug and jig. 

   EPS Boards: In temps above 80 degrees F, let the first pour cure for about 2 hours then mix another 1/2 oz Quik Kick resin per plug an top off.


Once the resin cures remove the jigs and sand the plugs down until they are flush with the board.  


__________________________________________________________________________________

Three other fin box options that are installed before fiberglassing your board are:

We also have FCS Fusion fin plugs which require a Fusion Install kit and trim router.

Another option is the new FCS II fin system which require a FCS II Install kit and trim router.


52. when setting an fcsII fin box is the flange supposed to be level with the board or is it supposed to sit .5-1mm below?

Open tab

FCS II finbox flange is to be flush with the foam and the tabs stick up about 1mm above the foam. You'll glass over them and the bumps sticking up will be sanded off, opening the box holes and making everything flush with the hotcoat.

53. I want to put quad fins with a center fin on my wake surf board and when I went to route the center fin the template was not flat on the board because of the double concave I put in

Open tab

The trick to routing a centerfin box into a deep double concave tail is to simply shim the router template to level. Depending on the curve of your concaves you may have to shape the sides of the finbox to the shape of the concave after the resin has cured. 

Close (esc)

HEADS UP!

FREE SHIPPING on Orders over

$200

(Does note include Surfboard Blanks or Kits)

Age verification

By clicking enter you are verifying that you are old enough to consume alcohol.

Search

Shopping Cart

Your cart is currently empty.
Shop now