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Can this epoxy resin be used with carbon fiber cloth over EPS/XPS for a light weight layup?
Yes, the Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy is excellent for laminating carbon fiber as it has a high modulus and easy wet out.
I've kept the hardener and resin in a cool dark place for the past 4 months(tightly sealed). Upon mixing a new batch, the resin seems to be considerable thicker and when mixed, doesn't "flow" as it did the first time of use. Is there anything I can add to thin the resin, before mixing with the hardener?
Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System with Slow Hardener is a product that works best at 70 degrees like most epoxy resins. If you wish to change the viscosity of the epoxy bring the temperateures of the epoxy and the project you are glassing to an average temperature of 70 degrees.
Will this epoxy resin stick to a polyurethane gloss spray?
Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System with Slow hardener will only machanically bond to Polyurethane spray. It would be advised to scratch the Polyurethane gloss up very well in order for any bond to take place.
Typically, we suggest using epoxy with epoxy and poly with poly to have the best chance of a good bonding surface.
I'm using the Marine Grade Epoxy Resin on a wood board without fiberglass. How will the epoxy respond to various treatments I might put on the wood prior to the epoxy? For example, can I put water or oil based stain on the wood first? How about Tru-Oil? Polyurethane? Natural shellac? Thanks!
Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System if amazing for sealing and glassing wood projects. Epoxy resin is typically used with water based products to avoid fish eye effects. We would suggest testing on scrap wood before applying the resin to your project to ensure compatability.
i didn't have enough hardener for the epoxy so I used a regular catalyst and it hasn't hardened after 5 hours, I left it out in the sunlight but nothing is working. What should I do?
Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System is weighted to an exact 2:1 mix ratio. Using a different "catalyst" will not make epoxy resin cure as it is formulated to work specifically with the hardener provided. We would suggest removing the uncured resing with a squegee and working with one type of resin.
I have about 10oz left of resin research 2100s, would I be able to mix that with your 6oz kit to finish my bottom hot coat?
We would not recommend using Resin Research resin or hardener with the Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy. These are not the same chemical mixtures and therefore we can not say what will happen in the curing process.
I have both the slow and fast hardener. Could I do the lamination with slow and hot coat with fast?
Grenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System can be used with slow hardener in the lamination. You can then use the fast hardener for the seal coat with no issues.
Within the resin amount chart, are the numbers listed there without the hardener being mixed in? So for example, if it shows 18oz of resin required for the deck of a 5'0 board, is that 18oz of JUST the resin and then you still need to mix in the hardener at a 2:1 ratio? Meaning, you would need 18oz of resin and 9oz of hardener to glass the deck?
When referencing our Epoxy resin mix chart for Greenlight Surf Supply Marine Grade Epoxy all of the numbers are listed as total amount of MIXED resin (that includes the hardener).
All of the ratios are 2:1 for Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System with SLOW Hardener.
Can this be applied directly to a wooden board without glassing?
Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System with SLOW Hardener can be applied directly to wood surfaces without the need for fiberglass. This is a great way to seal you wood projects with epoxy resin.
Is there any issue with using this resin on polyurethane blanks?
There is no issue using Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System with SLOW Hardener on Polyurethane foam blanks. It is actually the preferred resin by Greenlight Surf Supply for all PU Blanks since they are softer than EPS and therefore more suseptible to deck denting so easily.
Does this blush?
In high humidity all epoxies will blush as amine exudate (blush) is a chemical reaction that occurs between water, carbon dioxide, and the amine component (hardener) of epoxy resins. Also, excessive amine (hardener) in the mix ratio will be availalbe to react with moisture in the air and blush. It is important to mix the resin accurately with a digital scale to reduce or prevent blush.
If blush occurs simply scrub it off the epoxy surface with a scotchbrite pad and hot, soapy water.
How long should I wait after a bottom lam with the slow resin to cut the cutlap on the deck?
Cut the lap when you can touch the resin and it's soft but not tacky where it sticks to your finger. Timing depends on many factors as hardener speed, temperature, lamination schedule, etc.
Can I use this epoxy resin on a wooden board?
Yes, Marine Grade Epoxy resin is excellent for wood board building
What is the difference between Resin Research 2000CE ULTRA Epoxy Resin and Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin? When do i use the first one and when do i user the latter?
Use Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy Resin for both lamination and seal coating. It gives a much better finish than Resin Research with no need additional additives.
How much epoxy do you need for a 5'4 fish
Please refer to our resin usage chart
do I need to sand my laminating coat before applying the seal coat
No sanding needed between lamination and seal coat
Is this for lamination as well?
Yes the Marine Grade Epoxy Resin in both a laminating resin and glossy sealing resin
how much epoxy do you need if are glassing a 9'2 long board
A 1.5 gallon kit of Marine Grade Epoxy Resin will be enough to laminate, seal coat, and install fin boxes in a longboard.
How do I tell if I need to sand after doing the sealcoat with the greenlight marine grade epoxy resin? I saw that you said if the sealcoat is done well it won't need sanding.
If you're happy with the finish you don't need to sand the sealcoat. It has been proven that a sanded or glossed finish does nothing to improve the performance of the board in the water. The sealcoat / hotcoat is meant to seal the board from water wicking through the fiberglass and into the board.
The need to sand surfboards originated in the 60's (and continues today) with poor materials and techniques leaving an "undesirable" finish which needed to be sanded to look better - to SELL in surf shops!
The Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy system was created to produce a nearly flawless gloss finish on your surfboard or any project if applied to a clean surface, at the correct thickness (3 oz per linear foot of surfboard per side), and with the least amount of effort. Just pour the resin on the surface and distribute it evently over the boar with a clean brush and the "plow" technique. Then walk away. The less you touch the Greenlight resin, the better it looks when cured, and does not need to be sanded.
Can you use agent F with this epoxy resin?
No need for Additive F with the Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy System. Special surfacing componds are already included in the resin for blemish free coats.