What is Fin Cant Angle?
Fin cant angle refers to the tilt or angle of the fin in relation to the base of the surfboard. This seemingly subtle inclination holds the power to significantly impact your surfing dynamics, dictating how your board navigates through the swells.
Performance Implications
The fin cant angle serves as a silent conductor, influencing pivotal aspects of your ride:
Maneuverability vs. Stability: A shallower cant angle (0-3 degrees) tends to offer more drive and down the line speed providing a more predictable and controlled ride, ideal for navigating through larger waves with finesse. Conversely, a deeper cant angle (5-9 degrees) allows for quick, responsive turns, perfect for snappy maneuvers and dynamic surfing styles.
Control in Different Wave Conditions: Picture yourself riding varied wave conditions. A board with a smaller cant angle excels in larger, more powerful waves, offering steadiness and confidence amid the raw energy of the ocean. On the flip side, a board with a greater cant angle thrives in smaller, crisper waves, providing agility for swift adjustments.
Finding Your Perfect Harmony
Achieving the optimal fin cant angle is a personalized quest, entwined with your surfing style, body mechanics, and the waves you frequent. Experimentation becomes your compass in this quest for the perfect harmony between you, your board, and the waves.
At Greenlight, we offer both FCS and futures brand fin boxes. FCS2 fin system and FCS Fusion have the fin cant angle built into the fin box, ranging from zero,3,5,and 9 degree cant. FCS fins are made straight from base to tip and rely on the fin box to provide fin cant. Conversely, Futures fin boxes are molded straight up and down, and the fins themselves are made with the base tab at an angle, so when inserted in the fin box the fin will tilt out.
With either fin system, you will set the fin boxes into the board with a dummy fin and adjust the cant angle to your preference. We rely on our fin cant tool to nail the angle we're looking for with any fin system so there's no guessing...
Since you've read this far in the blog post we'd like you give you a free fin can setting jig with your purchase of and FCS or Futures Style product to help get your fin set right! Add a fin cant setting jig to your cart with FCS or Futures Style product and use code 'FINCANT' and the checkout.
]]>Within surfboard design, the placement of the apex of the concave scoop significantly impacts the board's performance. This positioning can vary, whether in front, under, or behind the surfer's front foot, eliciting distinct dynamics in the board's behavior. The correlation between the rider's stance and the concave's apex serves as a pivotal factor in dictating the board's responsiveness and maneuverability.
The idea of a "large" sweet spot might be subjective, as it's more about finding a balanced center that accommodates the average surfer's stance. However, the optimal position could vary based on individual surfing styles, preferences, and wave conditions. It's this balance that often designers and shapers seek—creating a board that performs consistently across various surfing scenarios.
In the world of surfboard design, the relationship between the apex of the concave and its influence on the board's ride is a crucial element. Understanding this relationship is pivotal for shapers and surfers alike, as it allows for tailored board customization to match desired surfing characteristics.
Our comprehensive surfboard design guide can provide valuable insights into how the placement of the concave's apex shapes the board's behavior. This information serves as a compass for shapers, guiding them in sculpting boards that align with specific performance goals. Whether it's seeking increased speed, improved maneuverability, or enhanced stability, the nuances of concave design play a pivotal role in achieving these objectives.
Ultimately, the pursuit of the "sweet spot" extends beyond a mere marketing ploy. It's a convergence point where craftsmanship and surfer expertise intersect, a pivotal region on the board that fosters a harmonious synergy between rider and wave. As surfing continues to evolve, the quest for this sweet spot remains an ongoing endeavor, blending artistry, science, and rider intuition in the perpetual pursuit of the perfect wave ride.
]]>Why Use Fiberglass Patches?
There are several reasons to use fiberglass patches over surfboard fin box installations:
How to install fiberglass fin box reinforcement patches:
The fin boxes should already by installed into the surfboard with resin that has cured. The patches will be applied to the board during the bottom fiberglass lamination process.
First download and print out Fiberglass Fin Patch Template below (also designed the right size to fill futures routed pockets if they are too deep)
Next use the template to cut the patches with 4 oz. or 6 oz. fiberglass. You'll need 1 patch per fin box
Then lay the patches over the fin boxes and center them. At this point you'll roll out or unfold you bottom fiberglass on the board and trim to the outline shape as well as cut the V-notches in the nose and tail areas if required.
Lastly, when saturating the fiberglass cloth with resin during the lamination, let the resin soak into the patches a little longer and make sure to push out any air bubbles that form around the fin box.
Adding fiberglass football reinforcement patches over your fin boxes will greatly increase the impact and torsional strength of your fins and help keep your board from damage.
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Let’s start by mentioning you can customize both EPS and PU foam blanks through Greenlight. We manufacture Engineered EPS Foam Surfboard Blanks in house and offer complete customization of your blank’s rocker, foil, thickness, outline, and stringer types. All you have to do is shape the rails and bottom contours, if any (flat is fastest)
US Blanks Polyurethane Foam can also be customized. We can order custom blanks for you and include in our regular shipments from the US Blanks manufacturer in California, saving you a lot of shipping cost. US Blank’s rocker, foam density and foam color, and stringer types are all customizable. Email us for a quote.
Now let’s get on to why it’s smart to start with a custom blank:
Rocker, or the curve from nose to tail on a surfboard, plays a pivotal role in how it rides. Starting with a custom blank allows you to tailor the rocker precisely to your preferences - without the chance of screwing it up by altering the rocker while shaping.
Greenlight Custom EPS Blank: Just design it and we’ll provide the blank to you specifications. No need to touch the rocker at all.
Custom US Blanks: Since PU foam blanks are molded, the custom rocker is cut into the stringer and the foam is bent to fit upon glue up. Typically when shaping PU blanks you start with a blank that is slightly longer than your final surfboard and cut a few inches off the nose and /or tail to hit your desired rocker curve. Remember and understand this when ordering a custom US Blank with adjusted rocker. Your Nose and Tail rockers numbers (inches from the “zero” flat plane) will be higher than your final surfboard numbers.
Also note US Blanks are limited in how much a rocker can be dropped (minus inches) from the stock dimensions. Less rocker will cause extra stress in the blank upon glue up and sometimes will show a “hump” of foam on the deck
The thickness of your surfboard significantly impacts its buoyancy and stability in the water. A custom blank lets you fine-tune the thickness to match your weight, skill level, and the type of waves you intend to ride.
Greenlight Custom EPS Blank: A great benefit to ordering your EPS blank to thickness is eliminating all the extra shaping work and foam dust required to shape a blank down to thickness. We recommend ordering your Greenlight EPS blanks ⅛” - ¼” thicker than your final surfboard thickness to give you room for rolling the rails into the deck and adding concaves to the bottom.
Also, you can design your surfboard’s foil (foam distribution from nose to tail) so you don’t have to stress over shaping that in. Keeping it simple is always best!
Custom US Blanks: Again, since PU foam surfboard blanks are molded, there is no opportunity to change thickness or foil. But selecting the right stock US Blank to customize can help reduce your shaping work. We’re always happy to help guide you in your blank selection if you have a question.
Stringers, either wood or high density foam strips running through the center of a surfboard, provide strength and control flex. Customizing the type and configuration of your stringer allows you to achieve specific performance characteristics and aesthetic style. From single to multiple stringers, wood to carbon fiber, you can tailor your surfboard's response and looks to your liking.
Greenlight Custom EPS Blank: We can do ANYTHING with stingers. From wood types and thicknesses, to high density foam colors, Greenlight can glue your EPS blanks up to pretty much anything you can think of. Double and triple stringers, tapered, Vee, T-bands, Butterfly glue up patterns… endless possibilities.
Greenlight is also a big fan of colored glue line stringers with our EPS foam. They provide a bit more stiffness than stringerless blanks and the glue is easily shapeable. No need for wood working tools!
Custom US Blanks: Same thing here. You can get just about anything you want in stringers!
The type and density of foam used in your surfboard significantly affect its weight, durability, and performance. Custom blanks come in various foam densities, giving you control over the board's weight and responsiveness. Whether you prefer a lightweight, agile board for tricks or a heavier, stable one for big waves, choosing the right foam density ensures your surfboard aligns with your goals.
Greenlight Custom EPS Blank: Our Engineered EPS foam is 2# per cubic foot density, which is standard for EPS surfboards but we have some special sauce in our foam formal that makes it shape very well and is more durable than other EPS surfboard blank manufacturers offer.
We do offer custom blanks in 1# and 1.5 density upon request. They are mostly for SUPs, Sail Boards, Waveskis, and Foil boards…
Custom US Blanks: US Blanks offers 6 different foam densities from super lightweight to Tow-in extra heavy blanks. At Greenlight we stock Blue density which is the middle ground as we believe in making boards that last longer for a fractional increase in weight. You can order Red density (about 5% lighter but not as strong / typically used for shortboards) or Green Density for heavier noserider longboards. There is also a “Classic Weight” density for old school heavy logs…
Whether you choose to start your surfboard shape with a Greenlight EPS custom blank or a custom US Blank, the benefits are clear.
In conclusion, shaping a surfboard from a custom blank offers numerous advantages that go beyond the off-the-shelf options. With the ability to customize rocker, thickness, stringer type and configuration, and foam density, you can create a surfboard that's perfectly attuned to your needs and preferences. The time-saving benefits, reduced dust when using close-tolerance EPS blanks, and the precision of the end product make custom shaping a worthwhile endeavor for any dedicated surfer. So, take the plunge, start with a custom blank, and ride the waves like never before.
]]>Surfing, an exhilarating dance with the waves, requires a perfect synergy between the surfer and their board. Among the myriad factors influencing a board's performance, the presence or absence of a stringer stands out as a crucial design element. Stringers, long, thin wooden or foam strips running down the center of a surfboard, have been an integral part of board construction for decades. However, the advent of stringerless designs has sparked a spirited debate among surfers and shapers alike. In this blog post, we delve into the key differences between stringered and stringerless surfboards to help you navigate the wave of choices.
Stringered Surfboards: The Traditional Backbone
Stringered surfboards, often considered the quintessential design, owe their legacy to the need for reinforcing Polyurethane foam blanks because they are inherently weak. The stringer, typically made of wood, acts as a central backbone, lending strength, stiffness, and controlled flex to the board. This design enhances stability, provides predictable performance, and allows shapers to fine-tune the board's characteristics. Stringers absorb energy and distribute forces evenly, resulting in a responsive feel and improved durability.
Stringerless Surfboards: Embracing Innovation
Stringerless surfboards, on the other hand, represent a departure from tradition, embodying the spirit of innovation and experimentation. With advancements in EPS foam and manufacturing techniques, shapers have developed stringerless designs that challenge the status quo. These boards typically feature composite materials, carbon fiber strips, or alternative foam cores to achieve a balance between strength, flexibility, and weight reduction.
Advantages of Stringerless Surfboards:
Enhanced Flex and Performance: Stringerless boards often exhibit dynamic flex patterns, allowing surfers to generate speed and maneuverability in a unique way.
Weight Reduction: By eliminating the wooden stringer, these boards tend to be lighter, translating to increased agility and responsiveness in the water.
Progressive Design: Stringerless boards open doors for innovative designs, pushing the boundaries of surfboard aesthetics and performance.
Choosing the Right Design: Factors to Consider
The choice between a stringered and stringerless surfboard ultimately boils down to personal preference and surfing style. Novice surfers may find stringered boards to be more forgiving and stable, aiding in skill development. Intermediate and advanced surfers, seeking to push their limits and experiment with maneuvers, may gravitate toward the dynamic nature of stringerless designs.
As far as shaping boards with or without stringers, it's much easier and quick to shape a stringerless blank.. no wood working tools required! Also, you're not bothering with the critical step of getting two dissimilar material densities (wood and foam) flush with each other so the fiberglass cloth bonds everything evenly. A slightly proud stringer will result in a void between the stringer and fiberglass ultimately resulting in a fiberglass crack and delamination.
Stringerless EPS foam blanks on the other hand, require very little shaping work (even less when you order a custom blank from Greenlight). You can choose to add carbon fiber reinforcements to the bottom of deck of the board when glassing and dial in strategic points of stiffness (through the middle) and flex (in the tail, usually). You can also choose to just have a stringerless blank with just a glue line acting as a moderate reinforcement, creating a slighty stiffer, even flex distribution from tip to tail, (Brian from Greenlight's personal preference) or leave the blank without extra reinforcement and let the fiberglass shell rule the flex. Boards are plenty strong that way too and have a little more bounce...
In the ever-evolving world of surfing, the debate between stringered and stringerless surfboards serves as a reminder of the sport's rich history and its relentless pursuit of progress. Both design approaches have their merits, catering to diverse skill levels and riding preferences. As you embark on your next wave-riding adventure, consider the advantages of each design and choose the board that resonates with your surfing aspirations. Whether you opt for the traditional stability of a stringered board or the avant-garde performance of a stringerless design, the ultimate goal remains the same – to carve unforgettable moments on the waves.
]]>The placement of surfboard fins directly affects the board's tracking ability. Fins that are placed closer together provide greater tracking stability and control, while fins placed further apart provide more maneuverability and looseness. Additionally, the positioning of the fins affects how the board turns. Fin clusters placed more towards the tail of the board provide greater pivot and turning ability, while fins placed more forward provide greater drive and speed.
Back foot placement also plays a critical role in surfboard performance. The back foot controls the board's weight distribution, which affects how the board turns and how much drive it produces. In general, placing the back foot further back on the board, over the fins, increases the board's maneuverability and turning ability, while placing it further forward, in front of the fins, increases drive and speed.
When taking off on a wave, the back foot should land somewhere in the middle of the fin cluster to provide maximum stability and control. Once the surfer is on the wave, the back foot can be moved forward or backward to optimize performance based on the wave's conditions and the surfer's intended maneuvers.
To take advantage of a surfboard's drive, the back foot should be placed further forward on the board, allowing for greater weight distribution towards the front of the board. This will increase the board's speed and allow the surfer to generate more power and momentum through turns. Conversely, to take advantage of a surfboard's turning ability, the back foot should be placed further back on the board, allowing for greater weight distribution towards the tail. This will increase the board's pivot and turning ability, allowing the surfer to carve and maneuver more easily. A tail pad with a raised hard stop provides a good reference for where the back foot is positioned at any time on a wave.
It's essential to note that finding the ideal back foot position requires some experimentation and adjustment. Surfers should take into account the board's shape, fin placement, wave conditions, and their own surfing style when determining the optimal back foot position.
Experimenting with back foot placement and fin positioning can help surfers optimize their performance and make the most of their time in the water.
]]>Fiberglass cloth is made from very thin fibers of glass that are woven together to create a fabric-like material. The fibers in the cloth are aligned in the direction of the intended strength, typically the lengthwise direction of the board. The cloth comes in different widths and thicknesses, and the type of cloth used will depend on the specific requirements of the surfboard.
Once the fiberglass cloth is in place, it's time to apply the epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is a two-part adhesive that, when mixed together, creates a strong and durable bond. The epoxy resin is poured onto the fiberglass cloth and then spread evenly with a spreader. It's important to work quickly while spreading the epoxy, as it begins to harden as soon as the two parts are mixed.
After the epoxy has been applied, the surfboard is left to cure. The initial curing process can take anywhere from 1 to 4 hours, depending on the speed of the hardener, ambient temperature and humidity. After the initial cure stage the surfboard can be handled and has reached approximately 85% of its full strength. After 7 days the resin "creeps" to full cure.
One of the benefits of fiberglassing with epoxy resin is that the surfboard will be much stronger and more durable than if it were made with traditional polyester resin. Epoxy resin is more resistant to impact and abrasion, making it a better choice for surfboards that will be used in heavy surf or rocky conditions. Additionally, epoxy resin is more environmentally friendly than polyester resin, as it produces fewer emissions and is less toxic.
Another advantage of using epoxy resin is that it is more UV resistant and does not yellow over time like polyester resin. This means that the surfboard will retain its original color and finish for a longer period of time.
It is also worth mentioning that epoxy resin is more expensive than polyester resin, so the cost of materials will be higher. BUT less epoxy resin is needed to fiberglass the board to the cost difference is minimal. That being said, the benefits of epoxy resin generally outweigh the additional cost.
In conclusion, surfboard fiberglassing with epoxy resin is a popular and effective method for creating a durable, lightweight, and high-performance surfboard. The process involves applying layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to the foam core of the surfboard, creating a strong and stiff structure that can withstand the rigors of surfing. Epoxy resin is more resistant to impact and abrasion than traditional polyester resin, and is also more environmentally friendly. The cost of materials may be higher, but the benefits of epoxy resin generally outweigh the additional cost.
]]>Boxy Rails - a boxy rail is a full volume rail that provides extra floatation and does not penetrate deeply into the wave face. It is somewhat square in shape and therefore forces water to release quickly over the transitions. This can help a board to be looser and feel more “skatey” when used along the middle (front foot area) of the board. Almost all standard shortboards have a very boxy rail toward the tail area around the fin cluster to get quick response and release in the primary turning area of the board. Small wave boards like fish, grovelers, and longboards usually incorporate a boxy rail along the middle to the tail to provide extra floatation for traversing flat sections of a wave.
Medium Round Rails - round, soft, rails are full in shape and provide resistance in turns, but dig into the wave face deeper than boxy rails and creates a nice balance of suction and release in most wave types. Medium round rails have a smooth fluid feel and are the most popular rail shape for most every-day boards. Round rails are great for most types of surf and allow for smooth rail-to-rail surfing, improved control and forgiveness.
Knifey Rails - heavily tapered or pinched rails are more sensitive and easy to sink into a turn. There is less volume in a knifey rail and they can dig deep into a vertical wave face (think Pipeline) and provide a ton of hold and suction as the water wraps and holds the rail contour. A knifey rail is a bit less forgiving than a round rail, but add that extra degree of sensitivity.
]]>If you’ve used epoxy resin in the past, you may have seen the hardener part discolor in the bottle over time. This phenomenon is called ambering and caused by oxidation. Although this is not necessarily a sign of degradation it’s useful to understand why it is happening and how it can potentially be prevented, or at least slowed down for water clear application.
What is Oxidation?
Ever cut an apple in half and it slowly turns brown? That’s oxidation, and yes, it’s still perfectly fine to eat! Same goes for epoxy resin hardeners. A chemical reaction occurs when both apple flesh and epoxy resin hardeners come in contact with oxygen. In short, that complex chemical reaction causes an ambering effect. The taste and nutrition of the apple is unaffected and the curing process and strength of the epoxy resin also remains the same. Oxidation is only a shift in color and nothing to get overly excited about.
With prolonged exposure, as well as additional oxygen introduced into the epoxy hardener bottle after pouring some out, the hardener will oxidize more and turn a darker shade of amber, or even brown over an extended period of time.
Does Oxidation Really Matter?
As all epoxy brands are not created equal, some brands use low grade chemicals that oxidize extremely quickly. Years ago Greenlight used to distribute a certain brand of epoxy resin (which will remain nameless) but when a full drum of hardener arrived to us looking doo-doo brown we started investigating why and learned a lot about epoxy chemistry. We ended up selling that resin at a loss to get rid of it and started the task of developing our Marine Grade Epoxy Resin System using the highest grade chemical compounds available (and some special sauce) to improve epoxy surface finish through eliminating pin holes, fish eyes, and orange peeling which are typically a big problem. The use of high grade chemicals shows to oxidize much slower than cheap materials but the hardener will still turn amber over time. It’s just the nature of epoxy chemistry…
When mixing an oxidized amber tinted hardener (Part B) with the epoxy resin component (Part A) will reduce the amber color to be barely noticeable, especially when applied in a thin layer as in a fiberglass lamination or an epoxy sealcoat.
So, no big deal if your epoxy hardener turns yellow, amber, or even brown color in the container. It’ll still have the same strength and durability as fresh resin. If you have really old epoxy hardener that has turned brown you can always add an epoxy pigment to color the resin and have no issues at all.
]]>Here's a rail band chart for a rail shape that works well in just about every wave shape.
Learn everything you'd ever want to know about designing and shaping surfboard rail bands in our MASTERCLASS Online Video Series.
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We know what you mean when saying fiberglass surfboard or epoxy surfboard but what do you call a polyurethane foam blank glassed with epoxy resin??? That’s also a popular surfboard construction but you probably don’t know that if you’re misinformed about surfboard vocabulary… but this article will set you straight and help understand the pros and cons of each type of surfboard construction.
We often hear (way to often) “I need fiberglass resin to repair my board” or “I want to make a fiberglass surfboard”... There is no such thing as fiberglass resin or a fiberglass surfboard!
THERE IS RESIN - a liquid plastic that cures hard over time to bond fiberglass to the foam core and make it waterproof. Resin can be polyester resin, epoxy resin, or vinylester resin.
THERE IS FIBERGLASS - Technically it’s fiberglass cloth. In the case of surfboards the fiberglass cloth is made of woven glass strands that protects the foam from core from damage and provides stiffness to the surfboard.
Let’s add another term to this mix for complete understanding:
COMPOSITE - A composite by definition is a combination of components that when bonded together create a stronger item than as individual components.
Surfboards are composite structures… Foam, fiberglass cloth, and resin all joined together to form a lightweight and relatively strong piece of equipment we love to ride waves with.
Also worth mentioning is the process of applying fiberglass cloth and resin to a shaped surfboard foam blank is called “glassing” - short for fiberglassing.
An “un-glassed” foam surfboard blank without the reinforcement of fiberglass cloth or resin will certainly snap in half at some point when trying to ride waves with it. A foam blank wrapped in fiberglass cloth and no resin will do the same. There is no composite structure going on yet. Fiberglass cloth without resin is useless (unless being used as insulation against heat or electricity). Similarly a foam surfboard blank “glassed” with only resin will take a bit more force to break due to the cured resin molecules cross-linking and providing some tensile and compressive strength but will certainly break…
So, we need to build a composite of foam, fiberglass cloth, and resin to make surfboards we can actually stand on and ride waves.
Now, let’s clear up the misinformation that has been adopted by some about the difference between fiberglass surfboards and epoxy surfboards.
Once again, there is no such thing as a fiberglass surfboard or an epoxy surfboard!
To start, all surfboards are glassed with fiberglass cloth. So let's squash that “fiberglass surfboard” misnomer right now. We know what you mean but the correct terminology is a PU/PE (Polyurethane Foam / Polyester Resin) surfboard.
A PU/PE surfboard has been the traditional construction since the 1940’s and still popular today. In a PU/PE construction a polyurethane foam core is glass with fiberglass cloth and polyester resin to make a surfboard.
Since the 1980’s epoxy resin has been used to glass surfboards and increase their durability and performance. Back then, more innovative surfboard builders replaced polyester resin with epoxy resin on PU foam cores but the results were less than optimal due to epoxies being rather new and underdeveloped at the time. Basically boards were heavier and not as good looking as traditional PU/PE constructions… to lessen the weight some manufacturers used super light weight EPS foam cores and glassed them with epoxy resins. Surftech was one of the first brands to do this on a large scale and at that point the term “Epoxy surfboards” was coined. Epoxy surfboards were also known as “pop-out” surfboards as they were made overseas and not hand shaped by molded shapes. These early EPS/Epoxy surfboards were actually too light and stiff and some say felt like surfing a ping pong ball which gave epoxy surfboards a bad reputation. Today when people refer to EPS/Epoxy Surfboards as “Epoxy Surfboards” they equate them to pop-out boards. But this is certainly not the case. Over the years EPS foam and epoxy resin technology (specifically Greenlight’s Engineered EPS foam blanks and Marine Grade Epoxy Resin) have drastically improved as well as shapers’ understanding of the the different flex properties and dynamics of the EPS/epoxy construction so “Epoxy Surfboards” now perform similarly or better than PU/PE or “Fiberglass Surfboards” and is a popular construction method for small wave boards by most surfboard manufacturers.
]]>The first step in the surfboard building process is choosing the correct blank. Most surfboards are made with either Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) or Polyurethane (PU) foam blanks. Greenlight carries both EPS and PU Blanks in a variety of shapes and sizes. Your first task is to choose EPS or PU as a blank material.
EPS foam blanks have been used in surfboard construction since the early 1980's but is quickly gaining popularity since advancements in foam technology has made EPS easier to work with and producing lighter, stronger boards. Surfboards shaped with EPS and glassed with Epoxy Resin have proven to have superior strength/weight ratios to PU/Polyester boards (about 3X stronger). EPS boards have been particularly popular for small-wave boards, where light-weight is important, and also are gaining popularity in big-wave guns, and performance longboards, and high performance shortboards, where strength/weight ratio is important. EPS foam is very durable and much more impact resistant than PU foam which means less dings and your board will keep it's lively flex and rebound feel for many years.
EPS blanks have a consistent density throughout the blank, so there is no worry of over-shaping the blank and exposing a weaker inner core. Most beginner shapers choose EPS blanks, as they are easiest to shape and produce a durable but still lightweight board. Greenlight's Engineered EPS blanks are the best quality and most consistent foam on the market. We recommend shaping EPS with our Greenlight Tool pack which we designed to be the most effective and easiest way to shape surfboards.
You can purchase a Greenlight Stock EPS blank in a variety of sizes and styles. We've categorized each type of blank in a "Series" so you can easily choose the right style blank for the type of board you're building (Fish, High Performance Shortboard, Longboard, Wakesurf, etc.)
We also offer a custom close tolerance blank cutting service which greatly reduces the amount of labor and dust created in your workspace while providing a perfectly cut outline, foil, and rocker based on your design. All you have to do is shape the rails and bottom contours. Combining technology and soulful hand shaping it the smartest way to shape in our opinion and definitely provides the best results.
One last comment of EPS foam, it MUST be glassed with epoxy resin! Polyester resin will melt the foam! Please do not make this mistake.
PU blanks have been the go-to core for the surfboard industry since the 60s. You can laminate them with epoxy or polyester resin. PU blanks are typically more dense and heavier than EPS blanks. Most PU blanks have a density of 3 lbs per cubic foot, while Greenlight EPS blanks are a specially engineered 2# per cubic foot density. PU foam shapes nicely and takes paint well for artwork.
Another unique characteristic of PU blanks is that they are denser in the “outer skin” than the “inner core.” When shaping PU, most shapers use “close tolerance” blanks, where they don’t have to shape deeper than the outer skin to preserve the most durable component of the blank. If you shape too far into a PU blank, the soft inner core will be exposed and your board is more likely to get pressure dings and delaminations in these areas. For this reason, EPS blanks are usually a safer, and stronger bet for beginner shapers.
Boards shaped with polyurethane foam will have a shorter lifespan and will deteriorate over time, losing it's flex and rebound characteristics and eventually break or buckle. But they surf nicely...
PU surfboard blanks can be glassed with either Polyester resin or Epoxy resin, with epoxy resin being a more popular choice for a longer lasting surfboard.
Once you have decided on PU or EPS, you need to choose the appropriately sized blank for your planned design. The three things you need to consider are:
When choosing a blank length, in general, the blank should be at least 1/4" inch longer, but not more than 6 inches longer than your intended final shape. Greenlight's Engineered EPS blanks are designed 1/4" longer than the nominal length so you can fit the board you want in the blank (provided the rocker is what you're aiming for - more on that below). Too short and you won’t be able to fit your shape on the blank, too long and you will have trouble getting the correct rocker shaped. So if you are going to shape a 6’0” fish, make sure you start with a blank that is at least 6’0 1/4"+ and not longer than 6’6”. Although you can shape a 6'0" board from a 6'0" blank with no room for rocker adjustment, or a 6'0" from a 9'3" blank and cut a few feet off either (or both ends). Remember your surfboard is sitting somewhere inside the blank, it's your job to bring it out.
When choosing a blank width, you need to primarily make sure that your blank is wide enough in all key dimensions: 12” from the nose, in the wide point, and 12” from the tail. Greenlight stock EPS blanks come in rectangular outlines that are 24" wide, so width isn’t an issue, but other blanks usually come in more compact “shortboard” profiles where the nose and tail are relatively narrow, or “fish/hybrid/longboard” profiles, where the nose and tail are wider and more suitable for these shapes. So if you’re making a short fish, make sure the blank is wide enough in the nose/tail area. Many “shortboard” blanks won’t work for fish shapes.
Finally, you need to make sure you can carve out the appropriate rocker from your blank. While some blank manufacturers offer custom rockers, as a beginner, you will most likely be choosing a “stock” rocker profile for your first board. Stock rockers usually fall in two categories: more curvy, shortboard rockers, or flatter fish rockers. The shortboard rockers usually have higher, thinner nose and tail curve, while the fish rockers have lower, thicker nose and tail curves.
Greenlight has made surfboard shaping easier and more accurate by offering a Custom EPS Blank Cutting Service. Design your blank with free software and all you have to do is shape the rails and bottom contours (if any). We take care of the critical outline and rocker shape from your design! If you have designed your board in the AKUShaper program, you will have all of the measurements needed to determine if a blank is suitable for your design: thickness in the center, nose, and tail; plus rocker in the nose and tail area. Every blank maker has a spec sheet for each blank which identifies the key measurements of the blank. If you have not designed with a CAD program, you just need to make sure you choose a “shortboard” rocker for making a shortboard or a “fish rocker” for making any type of low-rocker board. When in doubt, the crew at Greenlight can always steer you toward the most appropriate blank for your intended design.
Getting to know the real people working on boards; YOU. Whether it’s the kid doing ding repair to keep his solitary stick floating, the backyard shaper finishing each board like it is their greatest masterpiece, to the underrated guy in the glasshouse running a sander for hours every day.
Everyone has made their own little niche, some bigger than others in this industry but, we are all in this together and we want to hear from you!
Some of us have gone in alone and learned from our own sometimes costly and frustrating mistakes, others have worked their way up from the bottom learning from the greats, we can all benefit from each other so share your story.
The time of the jealousy guarded secrets from the big name brands keeping customers in the dark to maintain revenue is over and the true vibe of the surfing lifestyle is back!
Let's all get together as a community and share what we've got sometimes it's the little things that you see as second nature that may get a first timer over the hump of finishing their first board or you may do something different that might just make a seasoned vet scratch their head and say wow I've never thought that way.
We are stoked to hear what you've got!
Today’s Sidelight is focused on a great surfboard shaper, glasser, and friend of Greenlight Surf Supply; Bryan Fischer. We sat down with Bryan recently to hear his story and learn about how he got his company to where it is today.
Bryan began his company Bryan Fisher Surfboardsin 2013 in Gilbertsville, Pennsylvania (yes, not all surfboard shapers live at the beach!). Bryan said “from the first time I touched the foam I had an instant love for the art and craftsmanship of surfboard making”. Bryan explains “being landlocked and two hours from any beach, surfboard building was an awesome way for me to stay connected to surfing”.
As you can see from the incredible glass jobs and color work that Bryan Fischer Surfboards produces, he is a true master of his craft. He said “one thing I love about surfboards is the amazing colorwork and design that goes into them”. Bryan has been a color work guy from the very start. He likes to make each board its own with “beautiful and crazy colorwork”.
In 2019 Bryan was given the opportunity to glass boards for Kona Surf in Wildwood NJ @konasurfcompany. This was the catalyst that took Bryan’s skill level from backyard builder to being featured in the Resin and Soul glassing challenge on Surfline. That is when things really turned in Bryan’s life.
Bryan was chosen as the winner of Resin and Soul by Surflines instagram audience! The glassers that were included were incredible and all the boards were beautiful but Bryan was chosen by the community as the best. His dedication to becoming the best has been obvious over the years and he continues to grow with each board.
Bryan has also ventured into beautiful tie dye inlays on many of his boards with the help of Amanda from @_dyedbytide_ on instagram.
Bryan says that every board is a learning experience and it is one of the many reasons why he loves crafting custom surfboards.
As a long time customer we have been amazed by the quality of Bryan’s work and the speed that he has learned to be one of the best in the industry. He is a constant student which has given him the ability to soak up knowledge and skills during his surfboard shaping career.
If you are not following Bryan yet you can find him on instagram @bryanfischersurfboards and see the amazing work he does.
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Notice I used the words skill set to describe the act of using epoxy. Skill comes from knowledge and experience. So here’s a little more epoxy knowledge to help elevate your epoxy experience.
For years I’ve been telling people this little anecdote about epoxy to help them understand the importance of measuring epoxy thoroughly:
“The resin and hardener molecules are like a mingling at a party in the mixing cup. You want everyone to hold hands, that is where the strength is (this is called cross-linking). Anyone who is not paired up is floating in there, useless, in the way, and causes a soft spot in the cure. So an accurate mix ratio is critical so everyone is holding hands and there are no extra stragglers screwing up a fun party”
The epoxy systems we sell, Greenlight Marine Grade Epoxy and Resin Research are both measured and mixed at a 2 parts Resin to 1 part Hardener mix ratio by volume (in a graduated bucket).
But to be most accurate and have a full, durable cure to the epoxy it is best to weight the components out with a digital scale.
Greenlight has used and evaluated many different types of digital scales over the past 10 years and now offers two of the most accurate, reliable, and affordable digital scales on the market.
Now that you have all the epoxy molecules measured out precisely, it is important to mix the resin thoroughly so all the party-goers get to mingle and find a partner to join hands with.
We recommend slowly mixing the resin for at least 1 minute and be sure to scrape the sides, corners, and bottom of the mixing bucket to pull the viscous resin off the walls.
We’ve received far too many emails with first time epoxy users saying they have a soft spot on the board or “it didn’t cure”. This is usually from bad mixing habits and the resin stuck to the sides and bottom of the container has not cross-linked with the hardener molecules!
EPOXY Seal coats:
Best tip we can give for a flat and smooth epoxy seal coat is to lay it down and walk away! Don’t screw with it! Let it flow out and lay flat over time.
Few things I can tell you about seal coating technique.
I just glassed a wake surf board outside in the worst conditions, didn’t blow the lamination off, just a quick brush off to see how bad the fisheye and pinhole situation would be (and also an opportunity to figure out the best fix for seal coat problems). I followed the instructions I wrote above and guess what? Only 2 small issues after 10 minutes of the resin flowing out and settling (other than a couple bugs landing on the board but that gives it character).
I had 2 fish eyes (separations) so I simply dipped a gloved finger into the mixing bucket (resin is still flowable and not hardened) and gently swirled it on the separated area. It connected with the existing seal coat and filled the void and still had time to flatten and bond.
Separations in the seal coat is a epoxy surface tension issue. I just put a little resin where it needed to be to fix the issue.
So I guess the GOLDEN RULE of Epoxy #3 is:
Walk away, then come back and fix any little issues
Also, not a golden rule but a great tip: Pull your masking tape after the resin has tacked up (45 mins - 1.5 hour depending on temperature)
This will eliminate the masking tape from getting trapped under the resin and having it tear into a lot of piece to pick off the board.
It’s OK to leave the tape on the board after the seal coat has cured if time doesn’t permit pulling that tape earlier. Just use a razor tool to scrape the tape off the board, it’s much easier than picking it off.
]]>There are two types of surfboard foam Engineered EPS Foam and Polyurethane Foam. The differences in the two foam types are explained here in a previous blog post.
As far as how to choose the right size blank for your surfboard design we'll dive into the 5 main things to consider about your shape.
1. Surfboard Length - It used to be typical to start with a surfboard blank that's 1" - 8" longer than your final shape. A longer blank allows you to position your surfboard template closer to the nose for more nose rocker and shape in the tail rocker or vice versa.
Greenlight provides a service to custom cut your Engineered EPS surfboard blanks to your exact dimensions to reduce waste and help you achieve high accuracy with your design.
2. Surfboard Width: Make sure the blank you choose has enough width to fit your template into. Not only at the midpoint but all along the outline curve if you're shaping a PU foam blank. PU blanks are molded in a pre-shape and sometimes the nose is too narrow to fit your shape in. Use the blank manufacturer's catalog for the width dimensions all along the blank.
With Greenlight Engineered EPS Surfboard Blanks there's no worry about width as long as no part of the outline exceeds 24" wide. Whether you choose a stock EPS blank which is supplied in a rectangular shape or a custom cut outline on your blank there are no limitations in shape.
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FCS Fusion is another strong and easy to install pre-lamination fin box, just like the FCS IIs but for FCS twin tab fins with screws. This fin box is a slightly different shape and is to be installed with the FCS Fusion Install Kit, router, and install dummy fins
Futures Style fin boxes are made for futures single tab fins and are another fin system that is installed in the foam shape before fiberglassing the bottom of the board. Installing the futures style fin boxes requires a router, futures style fin box install kit, futures install dummy fins, and 3/8" wide fin box install tape. Futures style fin boxes come in 3/4" depth for front side fins and 1/2" depth for rear center fins and rear quad fin sets.
The most affordable fin box system to install into a surfboard is FCS X-2 or FACTORY fin plugs. They are installed after you sealcoat your board, before sanding. All you need is a power drill, install drill bit, Quickset jigs, and install dummy fins. Use the X-2 or FACTORY plugs with FCS twin tab fins. Great fin system for beginners but not the strongest...
Note: Due to this plug design and amount of resin needed to install them, when installing these plugs in EPS foam use SLOW Hardener Epoxy or install with 2 separate pours of FAST Hardener Epoxy to reduce the risk of melting the foam (epoxy exotherm)
Center fin channel boxes come in two lengths, 10.5" and 8.5" and are installed into longboards, stand up paddle boards, and single fin surfboards to accept a center fin with screw and plate to lock the fin in position. They are installed with a center fin install kit and router. Center fin channel boxes allow the fin to slide back and forth to dial in the turning performance of the surfboard or stand up paddle board. These center fin boxes are also used in foil boards to attach the foil mast to the surfboard.
Glass-on fins are old school style and provide great dynamic response as they are connected directly to the surfboard with fiberglass. Glass-on fins are glassed on after the lamination and before the sealcoat with fin roving and multiple layers of fiberglass running up each side of the fin to make them part of the board.
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This book includes chapters on:
Make sure to check out all the current day info on Surfboard Design and Construction in Greenlight's Surfboard Building Guide and Surfboard Design Guide
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The Greenlight Center Fin Install Kit can be purchased HERE
We've designed this fin box router system to be the safest way to install fin boxes by using a plunge routing method and plastic jig template.
Step 1. Position jig and tape down firmly
Step 2. Place Greenlight Router Base Plate Bushing on RIGHT LOWER CORNER of jig (when the spinning router bit touches the board it will want to move sideways to the right, this won't happen if you start in the right corner position - safety first!)
Step 3. Turn on router and slowly plunge into the foam. Note: For stringerless blanks or High Density Stringers you can plunge full 1" depth. For wood stringers we recommend plunging only 1/4" increments at a time for less stress and increased safety. You can also plunge the full 1" depth and skim cut the stringer with multiple passes to "shave" the wood away.
Step 4. Check the depth and size of the routed pocket is correct before removing the jig from the board.
Step 5. Cut a strip of fiberglass approximately 3" wide x 10" long for reinforcing the center fin box
Step 6. Tape off the area around the pocket to keep resin off the fiberglass for less sanding
Step 7. Mix 3 oz of resin and pour about 2 ounces into the routed pocket.
Step 8. Lay the fiberglass strip over the pocket and push the fin box down so the resin squeezes up. Top off the sides on the box with resin and pop any air bubbles. Make sure there are no air pockets around the perimeter of the fin box.
Step 9. Tape a dummy fin or piece of 3/8" wood to the board to keep the fin box perpendicular and put a downward force on the box to ensure it doesn't float up on the resin.
Step 10. When the resin cures sand the top of the fin box to the rocker curve of the surfboard and remove tape. You can remove any tape residue with WD-40 or acetone and scrape with a razor blade.
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Not sure where I got this but enjoy the info and hope it helps you design your surfboard fins or hydro foil.
Greenlight eliminated the need to shape surfboards with a power planer when you order blanks custom made to your desired thickness. Just hand shape the rails and bottom contours using our specialized foam shaping tools with more accuracy, no noise, and less mess!
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2. Wide point center (paralleled rail design)
3. Wide point forward
A surfboard's outline can be looked at in two halves, the front half provides speed, grip, and stability when we engage the rail of the surfboard into the wave face.The rear half of the board provides maneuverability and responsiveness when we lean our weight onto the tail and lift the nose higher out of the water to disengage the rail from the way face and pivot off the back foot to change direction.
The widest point of the board is going to loosely define where the divide between those two control surfaces are and how the overall speed and grip or maneuverability and responsiveness are either increased or decreased. Keep in mind the wide point is not necessarily the midpoint of the outline and how the shape affects how the board will perform.
Wide point Back from Midpoint
Let's start at the rear with wide point back behind the surfboard's midpoint. Pulling the wide point of the surfboard back increases the amount of curve through the back half of the outline making the board easier to carve through turns by narrowing the nose and reducing the material and weight up front. The swing weight of the board through a maneuver is reduced and makes the board more responsive. By eliminating the width of the nose it reduces the risk of catching the outside rail and so helps surfing closer to the curl in steeper waves or in tubes.
Wide point Centered at Midpoint
As we move the wide point further forward closer to the midpoint of the surfboard we end up with a more balanced outline where the nose and tail are closer in width and as the nose width increases so does the stability of the surfboard. When in trim creating more surface area to provide lift and thrust becomes particularly useful in either soft waves or when nose riding a longboard when speed and grip are particularly important. This is probably the most common outline we see in modern longboards and fish as it gives a nice balance between maneuverability and stability
Wide point Forward of Midpoint
An outline that has pushed the widest part of the board forward of the midpoint further increases lift and stability in the front half of the board. Wide point forward is typical of noserider longboards and useful on soft waves with little to no steep face to engage the rail earlier and crate lift and stability for nose riding. The tail of the board is narrower which aids in turning and maneuvering the board.
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After 60 years of brainwashing surfers, controlling trends, determining what's "cool" in our culture, and wrecking the vibe, you are now free to discover the true spirit of surfing without bias.
Long story short, Greenlight Surf Supply has had a sordid affair with Surfer Mag over the past few years ever since we started advertising with them in 2009. Other than all the bad and un-researched info they've spread whenever some crappy article about surfboard shaping was published, Surfer Magazine censored some of our advertisements (more than once) and even pulled a Christmas promotional ad from the magazine because "We have a number of Board brands that consistently support us and we know [your promotion] will be an issue"...
I guess the LostFireChannel bullshit brands didn't pay their bill to Surfer Magazine, even though 90% of ads in the magazine are bullshit clothing brands made overseas and forced down your throat by Surfer Mag month after month. That's not surfing...
You wanna know why they suppressed our Christmas 2017 promotion? Because Greenlight wanted everyone to know about our custom surfboard blank design and cutting service that allows any surfer to copy a big brand name board design and build that board themselves (but with stronger materials) for about 1/3rd the cost and a million times more stoke.
See, it has always Greenlight's goal to make surfboard building as easy and accessible as possible so all surfers, regardless of age or ability level, to experience a deeper and more soulful experience with surfing by designing, shaping, and glassing your own surfboards at home. That's how surfing started, circa 500 AD: Surfboards were hand carved from trees with pieces of sharp coral by the rider and having a surfboard back then was the ultimate status symbol. Tribal chiefs and nobles ride boards as long as 25 feet, while commoners caught waves on 7-footers.
Now surfers who design and build their own surfboards can be considered "nobles" in the surfing world. Commoners buy inferior products and lies that were fed by the now debunked Surfer Magazine...
Below is an image of the Surfer Magazine Volume 47 Issue 3, March 2006 cover of which I've been saving for over 14 years. It's shortly after Clark Foam closed it's doors and the surfboard world was in a tizzy. A copy of this cover was taped to the wall in my garage to serve as inspiration while I experimented and continued to improve the EPS foam, epoxy resins, and methods I had been building my own boards with. To this day Greenlight continues to improve the process of building boards so every surfer has the opportunity to ride with pride.
The title of this iconic Surfer Magazine issue is
"THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING"
Why The Surfboard Will Never Be The Same
I knew then there as no doubt surfboards will never be the same because I am on a mission to unlock the potential for all surfers to experience what many of us already feel when riding our own home built boards. And Greenlight IS CHANGING EVERYTHING you thought you new about surfboards.
The title of this blog post is Surfer Magazine's Last Issue - Why it's the 2nd best thing that has happened to surfing in the past 60 years
The first best thing that has happened to surfing in the past 60 years is Greenlight. More distinctly our extensive how-to-build-a-surfboard educational resources, our high quality surfboard shaping and glassing materials and specialized tools, and our dedication to helping you have more fun in the water and raise your stoke levels.
Good riddance Surfer Mag. Now we can all get back to the true spirit of surfing, like noble ancient polynesians connecting with nature on our own free terms.
~Brian
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